Universal Oud by Zara

Looks like a cousin of Jo Malone’s Velvet Rose & Oud, but with more character: less bright, murkier, and with an oud that’s less sticky and friendlier. The rose here is watery and earthy; if you like the note, it might lack punch, but if you’re not a fan, this one will win you over. Projection was beastly, sometimes fading out only to reappear out of nowhere. On my skin, which usually hates perfumes, I think it lasts all day if you apply it with intent. Unisex, leaning more masculine than its inspiration. 7.5/10, I feel like it gets overlooked just because it’s so approachable.

Basically pure oud; in my opinion, it’s good for layering because worn alone it’s very basic. It doesn’t smell like Jo Malone’s Rose Oud because you can actually detect the flower there, whereas in this Zara one, only the oud stands out.

A ‘meh’ experience: it doesn’t enchant me, lacks magic, and tells me nothing. It’s a very basic, dry, rough, and hard oud without elegance. Although it’s unisex, it has a strong masculine edge; to me, it smells like lots of patchouli. The first hour projects heavily until it becomes overwhelming, but by the third hour, it’s gone. It doesn’t matter that it’s from the Jo Malone line; I didn’t like it and it lacks quality. Try it in-store. Also, it doesn’t smell like rose at all, even though Zara’s website claims it; it’s just patchouli and oud. There are better oud options at Zara, like Perpetual Oud, which is delicate, feminine, and cheaper. I’ll give other scents from the Chapter 4 collection a chance.

I was really eager to try it because of Jo Malone’s reputation. This oud and rose combo needs time to settle. The opening (15-20 mins) isn’t very pleasant: a medicinal, synthetic oud and a rose that at times smells like mosquito repellent spray. But then the waters return to their course, and it becomes a subtle second skin. The issue is longevity and sillage, which are very poor compared to Montale’s Black Aoud or Frank Olivier’s Oud Touch. It’s like a small bubble that envelops you with little projection, lasting about 5 hours. For me, it’s a redundant purchase; it resembles Maboussin’s Cristal Oud without the incense. It’s fine for enjoying without making a scene, but in that case, I prefer Mancera’s The Aoud. Although Zara sells it as feminine, it’s clearly unisex.