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Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie 1924
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Descripción
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie 1924 by Chanel is a leather fragrance for women. Launched in 2007, the nose behind this composition is Ernest Beaux. The top notes include helichrysum, orange blossom, bergamot, lemon, and mandarin; the heart reveals iris, ylang-ylang, carnation, vetiver, jasmine, rose, and cedar; while the base settles on leather, birch, tobacco, musk, amber, heliotrope, and vanilla.
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1,034 votos
- Positivo 86%
- Negativo 13%
- Neutral 1.4%
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I was at the Chanel boutique in Florence testing the Les Exclusifs line (not available in my country) and I loved this one. The sales associate gave me a sample, and that night I tested it on my skin: the result was amazing. It’s an enveloping, sensual, and sophisticated aroma, complex in its development and of undeniable quality. It’s worth the high price; it smells bohemian and seductive. The blend of leather and flowers makes it dense and exclusive, very different from today’s generic sweet and sugary perfumes. It’s a Chanel masterpiece. If you’re looking for a leather fragrance, this is absolutely recommended.
It reminds me of a Marta Cibelina hat, the whip burning the kid leather gloves. Imagine the animal sweat of a horse galloping across the Russian steppes under the biting wind, wrapped in a blanket and the scent of a campfire on your skin. That’s the sensation of Cuir de Russie. Created by Ernest Beaux, inspired by his nomadic childhood and the family’s imperial leathers for the Ballets Russes, it’s paradoxical: on one hand, it’s dirty, sweaty, and cold; on the other, delicate, powdery, and elegant. My experience with leather is new, comparing this to Lancôme’s (fruity and delicate) and Shalimar’s (oriental leather). Chanel’s is smoky, insolent, and carefree. It smells like the seats of an old car or tall boots. It’s slightly sexy, masculine, and animal, but instead of being off-putting, it attracts. The flowers (roses, bergamot, jasmines) are powdery and vintage, adding depth, while the lily and cedar bring an earthy, musty touch that settles into amber, musk, and vanilla. It’s resolutely unisex, with an artisanal feel. Two drops lasted six hours, and the first two were noticeable from a distance.
A classic that remains trendy. It’s totally masculine and perfect for leather lovers, as this note dominates from the top to the base. It starts with a bright, citrusy touch that leads to a sensual floral heart with cedar and vetiver. The base is where the leather shines, mixed with musk and tobacco for a potent masculine effect. The quality-price ratio is justified, and it’s highly recommended for winter nights. It’s a smart choice within the leather olfactory family, far from being generic.
Here the leather takes charge, but with class. Chanel knows how to keep it animalic without losing elegance, thanks to other nuances that refine it. It’s complex and dense, like all the brand’s classic pieces. Although I’m not an expert at distinguishing all the notes, I catch three clear chords: leathery, woody, and floral. I tested it in July with a sample, and although it’s unisex, it seemed more masculine to me, though that’s subjective. I don’t remember its longevity well, but I do know it smells very formal and nothing summery. They say it’s a masterpiece of perfumery, and by how it smells, they’re right.
Sometimes instinct tricks us into trying things we shouldn’t, pushing us out of our comfort zone. That happened with this Chanel gem; I rarely like their perfumes, but I was curious about the Les Exclusifs line. I bought it secondhand at a great deal since the seller didn’t like it. It’s an excellent fragrance, even though it strays from my vintage profile, which tends to be cleaner. Upon opening it, the Ylang-Ylang is brutally animalic, almost like cat urine, which gives me a bit of a headache. This animal note highlights the vintage leather, which here smells dirty due to the indolic jasmine and clove, with that typical powdery aldehydic touch from the house. Then it releases its woody side of birch bark and tobacco, all softened by the musk. Unlike others that claim to start soft and become animalic later, for me it’s the opposite: in heat it’s smooth, but in cold, the animal note is noticeable the moment you spray it. It’s a well-constructed masterpiece, but it’s not my vintage style, so it’ll pass in my collection.