Essence No. 4 Oud

3 reseñas

Mostrando las más recientes primero.

• Darkbeat

  August 4, 2017

  

  A magnificent work by Mr. Kurkdjian; with just three notes he has created a mysterious and cozy perfume, with a mystical air that stimulates the senses. The opening reminds me of Bois D’encens by Armani Prive, but slightly more turpentine-like: a spicy, resinous, cold, and balsamic scent, exquisite. It emulates the sensation of fresh incense, not the smell when it burns, but that of the stones untouched, like opening a small bag full of incense and breathing inside. I love it. This opening is long-lasting, it lasts half an hour or more, and gradually turns woody. A very spicy and warm wood begins to emerge; together with the previous notes, they create an intense, resinous, vibrant, and balsamic woody aroma, ecstatic. At the end, the protagonist is the oud, with a subtle resinous veil of very faint vanilla, highlighting the multiple nuances of these woods. A scent of marked character, not for everyone. The oud here is very tamed: it is intense, but without that dirty and medicinal touch of other ouds I’ve smelled; here it is dyed with a deep, spicy, warm, balsamic, and slightly creamy woody smell, only in the final phase and nothing exaggerated, adding that distinctive touch to round off the work. As I said, it’s not for everyone, it needs someone who knows how to wear it. I particularly love it, but I find it hard to know what occasions to wear it for. Anyway, it’s a beautiful perfume for cold or temperate climates and for the night, although this depends on each person. The longevity was over 9 hours, with a good trail for about 3 hours, then it fades to moderate, but it’s not bad at all. I wouldn’t openly recommend it due to the exorbitant price, but if money is no object, it is highly recommended.

• Josesan

  January 27, 2018

  

  Elie Saab’s Essences collection features four perfumes: Rose, Gardenia, Amber, and Oud. All created by Francis Kurkdjian after visiting Elie Saab’s haute couture workshop to ‘see the dresses and listen to what they had to say’. The collection is based on the origin of the raw materials of the fabrics and how they are worked, aiming to translate the aesthetic vocabulary of clothing into perfumery. Specifically, in Essence No. 4 Oud, he focused on the infinite variations around black, that color that absorbs the entire spectrum and which both understand as the culmination of elegance. The first few minutes of ESSENCE Nº 4 OUD are a bit confusing; I only notice a chemical smell of turpentine, oil-based paint solvent. It’s not what I expected from such an expensive niche nor from an auteur like Kurkdjian, although I know of his penchant for chemical adventures, like with MA DAME by Gaultier. Nothing to object to because in art one must innovate and geniuses have to break molds. Think of ‘Les Demoiselles d’Avignon’ by Picasso or ‘Ulysses’ by Joyce: scandalous and misunderstood works at first. That’s why Kurkdjian has to innovate and shock, because for fruit chulies, the current party is already over. Over time, very little by little, the familiar smell (which I love) of black pepper, spicy and oriental, appears, but the turpentine remains there, something I’ve never associated with oud or benzoin. We’ll give it time!, I think, because it can’t stay just at this. Minutes pass and the turpentine persists, although the level of pepper rises. But that’s all. I tell myself: it can’t be that oud or benzoin smells like turpentine! I know there are many varieties: the Indian (animalic), the Cambodian (incense), the Indonesian (herbaceous), the Bangladeshi (leather), or the Dubai one (olives and tobacco). I also know that sometimes it’s westernized with cedar, patchouli, or camphor, but in ESSENCE Nº 4 OUD I recognize none of that nor benzoin resin. Time passes, and at most, that turpentine adopts nuances of very camphorated, resinous cedar. It’s not unpleasant, but it’s not what one expects from such an expensive niche and such a renowned creator. From my humble opinion, Kurkdjian didn’t try very hard. His development is one-note, the scent is what I described, and the trail and longevity are moderate. And here is a blessing because the smell it would convey would be the same as cleaning brushes after an oil painting session.

• Lando

  September 9, 2021

  

  Balsamic oud, with that medicinal and burnt rubber touch that grabs you right away. Suddenly, a deep leather and slightly animal vibe, just a faint perception, a flash… Someone told me that the industrial, oily, and unguentous air I detect is turpentine, and they’re right, but it’s a note that doesn’t overpower. It’s elegant, reserved, stands out, and is versatile: it doesn’t project like a beast nor last forever, but it performs more than enough on my skin. In my opinion, it’s for relaxing alone with a good wine, dining beyond the beach shack, somewhat casual receptions, business, crossing the jungle, or walking the dog… a varied scenario, I guess. After all, it seems that’s what Laotian oud is like. I love it so much, so much. A scent with personality.