Iris Noir by Yves Rocher

Oriental floral? Nah, it’s a marble chypre through and through. This Yves Rocher series was fantastic; contrary to the house’s usual policy, it started out more citrusy, romantic, and aromatic, more Mediterranean, but unfortunately, in recent years, it’s become more vulgar (all those pink things). The Secrets d’Essences line introduced adult, exotic, well-crafted perfumes—modern revisions of classic oriental and French scents, all bold yet airy, sophisticated, and current. The bottle that held and unified them was also pretty: a transparent amphora recalling those old apothecaries that stored oils in the past. This one was called Iris Noir, and the name was no coincidence, because it has nothing to do with lilies or florals. What it contains is one of those marbled, camphorated, herbaceous chypres that will delight anyone who enjoys scents like Eau de Soir, that forgotten Fendi from the eighties, or Coriandre by Jean Couturier. Because exactly that’s what it smells like: cilantro or coriandre raised to the max. At first, there was a terrible alcoholic whiff, paired with a fake citrus caramel and some abstract floral, oily, and salty notes (ambrette)—it didn’t hint at the perfume coming. Once it settled, what became clear was lots of patchouli in its smoky, herbaceous version, and tons of cilantro, cilantro overload. And indeed, although for about an hour it played with the texture, becoming softer or sweatier (definitely the ambrette), when it ran out of steam, what remained was that classic green chypre that makes you think of freshly scrubbed marble floors: a cold, herbal chypre, evoking a winter dawn in a European forest or a grand French or Russian castle. Tonka and iris were imperceptible; at most, they added an illusion of something sweet, sparkling, or greasy during the first two phases, but they never felt like distinct notes. To sum up: cilantro, cilantro, and cilantro. Unfortunately, like the whole line, it’s discontinued, though you can find it online at a very good price. Longevity was decent. A great example of an updated chypre with a touch more sophistication and modernity, totally unisex, with quality and creativity far exceeding its price.

It’s an exquisite, mysterious, and feminine perfume. I definitely wear it on cool nights; that’s when it shines and doesn’t feel like a waste. It’s a shame I can’t find it anymore—it was intoxicating, and there’s nothing like it.

I owned it, and it was incredible: mysterious, long-lasting, and Yves Rocher no longer sells it in Spain, neither in stores nor online. It’s discontinued. What a pity; I don’t understand why they drop such great fragrances. Does anyone know a website where I can still buy it? Thanks.