Heartless Helen by Penhaligon's

In the opening, I notice something that reminds me of old Juanola mints, the exact same scent, although it doesn’t mention licorice. I didn’t like the sample; I didn’t even finish using it because I didn’t feel comfortable wearing the perfume. I see it for autumn and evening, a quiet night when the air starts to cool down and the heat has passed. Nothing for everyday wear or big events.

A magical citrus fragrance. Years ago, I wasn’t a fan of citrus, but when I entered the niche world, I was looking for something surprising: tobacco, oud, alcohol, molecules… Years later, once the forbidden became familiar and I matched the perfume to my rhythm, I returned to the luminous, noble, and easy. These are the ones that leave a great aftertaste and make a cordial impression. There are stages where we fight against everything, wanting to be strong and complex, and others where we arrive at our destination, relaxed and in harmony. Here is Heartless Helen, for spring-summer, with juicy, sweet, and woody neroli. The opening is explosive and tasty, though not groundbreaking. Penhaligon’s describes it as feminine, but I see it as unisex; the neroli doesn’t dominate to make it floral, but harmonizes perfectly with the citrus and wood, available for anyone who wants to wear it. Perfect for the office, elegant, noble yet balanced. On my skin, it’s spectacular: medium-to-high projection and 8-10 hours of longevity. The beautiful aquamarine color of the liquid and the stunning bottle stand out.

(Tuberose lovers chapter 8) Neroli without excess, featuring freshness and subtle sweetness. Dominique Ropion brings neroli to a more accessible ground than intense florals like Gucci Bloom or Do Son. The neroli’s prominence is tempered by a sparkling citrus opening of mandarin and pink pepper, adding effervescent freshness and reducing density. The heart unfolds a soapy, clean, and creamy neroli—elegant without being invasive. However, the dry-down loses intensity quickly, leaving just a sweet, subtle skin scent. In my case, the longevity was moderate and the trail average, but it’s essential to try it first, as it might perform better on other skin types. A moderate white floral, ideal for those seeking the essence of neroli without the usual drama.

It starts fresh and citrusy, like a sparkling drink, then quickly turns into a sweet flower, like those yellow ones on a honey stick, evoking an old-fashioned wedding candy. It’s a captivating and subtle scent that isn’t cloying. I’d rank it third in this line, after Yasmine and Lady Blanche. Worth buying or hunting for something more affordable with those notes. Unisex, leaning feminine.

It’s my favorite neroli: opens with mandarin and a mysterious almond nuance creating a unique, sweet, woody, and versatile accord. Seems simple but is packed with nuances that make it one-of-a-kind. The trail is enchanting and lasts about 4-5 hours. On a woman’s skin it shines, on mine it darkens. A classic hard to imitate, ideal if you’re looking for quality and something different.

It concentrates all the natural sweetness of the flower, like a herbal-scented Starlux candy. Intense and penetrating, it hits hard and leaves a particular trail. Smells like glucose or a very sweet, deep herbal substance, curious. It’s the scent of neroli txutxes, gummies, and pure nectar lollipops. No sugar, but with a natural sweetness like maple syrup. Interesting to know, though I don’t think it’s for me.