Gao by Xerjoff

Woody and smoky with green touches. It’s not easy because the opening with saffron and nagarmota is slightly alcoholic, camphorated, and smoky, but it lasts 15 minutes before the woods enter with a soft saffron that adds warmth to the Hayat-style oud. The Balsam of Peru gives it creaminess. It works great in heat with medium projection and extreme longevity. It’s a compliment-getter in summer due to its mysterious dry-down. As it dries, the saffron and woods give off a warm vibe, like suede or moss. A true gem, honestly. From hate to love, there’s only one Gao. I first met it in a sample set and thought it was ugly and pointless, until it gave me a headache. A year later, with a gifted sample, I smelled it again. Now I notice that smoky opening but it’s greener, challenging yet not so bad. It reminded me of Amouage’s Silver Oud. When applied well, I enjoyed the opening and fell in love with the woods and saffron in the heart notes. The Hayat oud is present, but the saffron and woods make a wonderful ensemble. As it dries, the saffron and woods fade, leaving the Thai Oud, which is where it most resembles Hayat, though this one has more cardamom and lavender. I now have two bottles of Gao. Its great performance in heat makes me always want to carry it. Master Carbonnel said it yielded great results in Brazil. I tried it again and rediscovered this gem. Mention to Jeremias from Perfumism, thanks to him I verified that Gao is a gem.

It’s for a very specific collective. You can’t buy this blindly, not even a little bit. It has an extremely chemical profile. Upon spraying, it smells exactly like opening a can of wood varnish and stays that way for at least 4-5 hours. Out of the 10-15 people who smelled it, from the very first moment, they said it was unappealing. Some said it smelled like ‘Loctite’ and others like ‘Reflex’. I love strong, long-lasting perfumes; I usually overspray if I’m outside all day, but with 3-4 sprays you have more than enough for 12 hours and project for 6-8. It will last years in my collection, but if I could go back in time, I still wouldn’t buy it.

I skipped the technical breakdown: Gao is a one-way trip to extreme quality. After this, no designer fragrance seems as good. The opening is incredibly difficult, but with patience, it reveals its full splendor. They say it smells like an old book, which is accurate, though I don’t associate anything ‘old’ with it. It smells like a discovery, a treasure, a lost kingdom. Under NO circumstances is this casual, and no one under 30 should try it. It’s power, dominance, security, opulence, and sophistication. It’s pure exuberance. That is Gao, and there is no way to contain it.

Forget the technical details. Gao is a one-way trip to extreme quality; after this, nothing by the designers seems the same. The opening is tough, but with patience, it explodes into its full splendor. They say it smells like an old book, and they’re right, though it’s not a ‘old’ smell, but rather a discovery, a treasure, a lost kingdom. Nothing casual, and definitely not for anyone under 30. It’s power, dominance, security, opulence, and sophistication. That is Gao, and it doesn’t hold back.

It’s for a very specific niche; don’t even think about buying it blind. It smells like pure wood varnish for the first few hours—a super chemical profile that scares people off, some even saying it smells like Loctite or Reflex. I love powerful and long-lasting scents; with 3 or 4 sprays, it lasts 12 hours and projects for 6-8. However, if I could go back, I wouldn’t repurchase it, even though it’s been a staple in my collection for years.

What can I say about this perfume? • I bought it blind, like all fragrances. • The first time, it was terrifying. • The second time, it disgusted me less. • The third time, I got a neutral result. • The fourth time, it started to seem interesting. • The fifth time, I started to appreciate some notes. • The sixth time, I was glad I bought it. • The seventh time, I decided to explore it in depth. (And I’m in that phase now)

It doesn’t try to please everyone, but it commands respect from the very first second. Gao is intensity, elegance, and character. It’s brutal, dry, and refined oud with saffron, amber, and resins that make it magnetic. The projection and longevity are insane. It’s not easy, but if you get it, it accompanies you like a second skin. For me, there is no other like it.

It is difficult at first, but it doesn’t disgust me at all. I’ll leave it in storage for a while until I find the right occasion and the desire to test it thoroughly.