Brioni Eau de Parfum Essentiel

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• imanolmoreno

  June 9, 2023

  

  While Picasso wasn’t a lone inventor, his genius lay in elevating any style, from academicism to surrealism, to a higher plane. Perfumery works the same way: sometimes the notes are familiar, but the assembly stitches them together with an unexpected seam, like the 2019 Moschino Toy Boy. Other perfumers, like Rosendo Mateu, take classic ideas and push them further; his Private Collection has that vibe, featuring a spectacular tea Number 1 and others that evoke scents like Xerjoff’s Alexandria II. On the other hand, Andrés Croxatto’s Man failed when trying to modernize a 90s fougere with amber that drowned it out, even though the nostalgia of that era deserves to be saved. This is where Michel Almairac steps in, the master who dressed James Bond and now perfumes Brioni. After Croxatto’s failure, Almairac brings us the Brioni Eau de Parfum Essentiel, a stolen sigh from time that defies the clock and revives those 90s with clean, herbal fougères. It’s not a copy, but an olfactory thrashing: the gin is pure and refreshing, it hooks up with the herbal heart, and lands on a sweet base of sandalwood and tonka. It’s a perfume of contrasts: vintage yet current, traditional yet innovative. Fresh upon application with a fluid evolution, it proves that a master doesn’t need to invent genres to leave a mark, but rather to overcome impossible challenges and rescue from oblivion what history shouldn’t have buried.