Basala by Shiseido

Across all cultures, there’s that archetype of the forest loner—dark, dangerous, hard to find, yet hypnotic. Basala by Shiseido captures that indefinable darkness, something slightly unsettling: it attracts and repels us, leads us astray, and denies us an exit. The temptation to venture deeper comes from smoky yet soft spices at the start, devoid of sweetness, before plunging you into an enchanted forest with no way out. The flowers shine like will-o’-the-wisps (carnation, rose, jasmine), while cinnamon and resins act as a compass leading to a chilling house filled with skulls. What’s missing is that cozy caress you need after stumbling through the cold woods. The longevity is long, like an endless maze. It’s a fragrance out of time; misplaced among aquatic scents in the early 90s, yet echoing the fougère-chypres of the 80s; a bewildering premonition and a clear example of what we now call niche. Even a bold, open-minded woman could wear it. It’s not easy: nothing favors you, nothing is friendly. It’s challenging, intense, and demands focus, but exciting and complex. Serge Lutens’ signature is unmistakable; if you’re looking for modern perfumes, stay away—you’ll find it stale, unpleasant, herbaceous, chemical, dry, balsamic, resinous, rancid, bitter, and moldy. In conclusion: another interesting relic of the 90s, recommended for those who dare to dive in with fear but with absolute respect. (Courtesy of Sebi)

It starts fresh with lavender, sweet fruits, bergamot, and green notes, everything balanced so nothing dominates. After three hours, it smells very much like Ralph Lauren’s Safari; they share almost the entire backbone: 5 top notes, 4 heart notes, and 6 base notes, so the similarity is real. Plus, since they’re from similar eras, it seems Basala was heavily inspired by Safari. The only notable difference is that touch of fir in the heart. The dry-down is long, loaded with amber, musk, cedar, patchouli, and soft moss. It’s the same style as Safari and targets the same audience. The sillage goes from heavy to moderate, and the longevity exceeds 12 hours, which is very noticeable. It has initial freshness for heat and a dry-down perfect for cold weather. Clearly for formal wear.