Ténéré by Rabanne

Hey Josesan, looks like you’re about to drop another flowery, over-the-top ode. I don’t even remember the last time you trashed a fragrance, do you? Maybe it’s because you only review what you like. But if nothing provokes you, how can people take you seriously? Fine, fine, keep with your cataclysmic critique; the public deserves what they want. But what’s this one about? It’s TENERÉ by Paco Rabanne. My dear, what obsession is this with Paco Rabanne? The name comes from the Teneré desert in the Sahara, where a French motorcyclist got lost in 1979 and later founded the Dakar Rally. There was a mythical tree there, the Tree of Teneré, a symbol of Niger. Does the perfume have anything to do with the desert? Not really; it’s an Aromatic Floral Animalic Chypre. The name is just a poetic license, like Calandre or Dune. It’s a timeless classic, something that existed before man did. It features Pierre Wargnye and Rosendo Mateu. You say they didn’t create anything new? Not exactly. Recreating natural aromas isn’t easy, especially with IFRA restrictions. A perfumer reinterprets jasmine, making it sweeter or more animalic with civet and nutmeg. TENERÉ is exuberant, starting with scorched flowers: rose, carnation, jasmine, rosemary, and vetiver. Then come the conifers. And the rest? It has a strong hesperidic component, not a summer lemonade kind, but pungent, sharp, and dry citrus. How? They use orange, lemon, and bergamot with grapefruit and yuzu, which are more bitter and cutting. It turns a citrus fragrance into an Intense Green Chypre. What a mess! I’m not a chemist, but I can tell a good wine from a bad one. It’s not about university studies, but passion and self-taught research. Does it smell like Paco Rabanne Pour Homme? Very little. This one is more potent, dry, and drastic, perfect for going out at night without smelling sweet or like ambroxan. It has leather, moss, jasmine, tarragon, and dark amber. Within its complexity, it recreates chords from the 70s and 80s, from Chanel No. 5 to Youth Dew. It might seem complicated, but it’s pure classicism. Will your crew like it? If you like García Márquez, Ella Fitzgerald, Francis Bacon, Béla Bartók, the New Wave, turbans, and kaftans, you’ll definitely love TENERÉ. Josesan, I don’t know what you’re talking about. That’s the problem.

I picked up a miniature because of the reviews and because the box design, with those strange red letters on a black background, told me I had to do it. I’m trying it for the first time and it’s a bit confusing me. It’s fresh, sweet, floral, earthy… all at the same time but nothing concrete. Close to the skin, it reminds me a bit of Black Extreme by Ted Lapidus. Well, I’ll have to try it more, although I’m sad because the miniature won’t last long.

Ténéré is an extravagant, shameless, and unapologetic fougère fragrance, which is why it deserves its merit. Completely forgotten by the community. TENERÉ is vice, money, and kitsch luxury. The drydown is very strange; it happens to me with classic Givenchy Gentleman and its potent honey note, but with this PR specimen, it’s sweeter and a bit less long-lasting than Kouros (it depends on how you get the fragrance). It’s long-lasting but quite contained in projection. I wouldn’t know when to use it, but the truth is it’s an impactful experience. If you’re used to AdG Profumo, Sauvage, or Bleu, stay away from this; it’s for hardcore noses.

I really loved that fragrance. And I was so angry when they stopped selling it. After all, in the late 80s, true marvels of men’s perfumery were created. A land of great aromatic fougères, among them undoubtedly this Tenere. Perhaps as eclipsed and misunderstood as it was ahead of its time. A beast in terms of scent and longevity, far above its predecessor XS. I don’t know how the subsequent reformulations turned out. By the way, perfumes back then didn’t go bad as quickly after 36 months as they do now. Everything was made to last. Proof of this is when I rescued my ancient bottle with barely any liquid left; it still smelled like Tenere, a true gift and an exabyte of memories for me.

Tenere by Rabanne will be one of the most unsettling perfumes I’ve tried. Do you remember the mystery series from the late eighties, ‘The Hitchhiker’? Only the opening terrified me: a guy hitchhiking in desolate landscapes with disturbing electronic music. I was seven years old and got stuck, terrified but seduced by the weirdness. Every time I try Tenere, those images come up. Like the series, a disturbing and sophisticated product, so is this perfume. It belongs to that late-80s batch that doesn’t know what it is: neither ferns nor dry leather, nor aquatic sports scents. It’s in no man’s land, very loaded, daring with feminine notes, playing with flowers and resins in a way that doesn’t say much today, but back then it touched on the artistic. Above all, it’s floral, but don’t let a woman wear it. It’s not rough; on the contrary, it’s flowers soaked in honey. But watch out, those flowers smell like the toasted dried bouquets from the nineties in waiting rooms, including my mother’s. They aren’t alive; they’re drier than dried cod, but they don’t smell dusty because someone decided to soak that bouquet of wild grains in honey. The result is an aromatic grease, sweet, greasy, and honeyed that puts your senses on alert. There are perfumes that say ‘don’t trust your shadow.’ Tenere is one of those. The first male by Dalí, the one with the black bottle, is another. Fragrances that, when you smell them, make you feel something bad is about to happen. I’m incapable of wearing it; I prefer not to smell it because it disturbs me (I’m very sensitive). Today I did it because some spilled ml in a box forced me, and I thought the same thing: it’s strange, unsettling, what the crazies in Lynch movies would wear, that people who invite you for a shot or stab you with a knife. A diabolical and sickening thing, just like the walker in ‘The Hitchhiker’.

Another great 80s fresh and long-lasting fragrance that opens brilliantly and peculiarly, fusing honey, citrus, and florals. It’s a scent that dresses you in a special way, enveloping you fantastically, highlighting a high-quality floral potency. Any tobacco? The drydown is balsamic, spicy, and sweet, in an oriental style. It’s a splendid example of past aromas that could be brought back to life, bottled by niche brands, and turned into instant cult classics. Simply sublime; it’s a pity to think we can only cross paths with it by chance.

Tenere is undoubtedly a great eighties fragrance, one of those that are no longer made, very complex and rich in nuances, like a roller coaster. Fresh, citrusy, and terpene opening, with an old-school feel, reminding me of mythical chypres from the era like Derby. It quickly shifts: the touch of fern, lavender, and herbs enters, turning it dark, deep, and sumptuous. Then the floral combo with lily-of-the-valley root appears, settling on an incredibly pleasant and balanced skin. The spicy and spicy touch of the carnation makes it very masculine. The dry down is fantastic, going through two stages: first leather-patchouli and then honey-animal, finishing with a slightly powdery cloud effect that diffuses a sophisticated aura. The result is impeccable, renewing, multifaceted, classy, and stylish. In fact, Tenere has so much personality it deserves to be a cult fragrance. Rating: 8/10.

What a good fragrance this is. Prieth is right to compare it to Givenchy Gentleman, but a bit rougher, yet delicious too. The opening is strong until a bit dizzying, but after 5 minutes it starts to be more harmonious. It’s very floral and the honey is very noticeable, but the best is the base and drydown of leather, patchouli, amber, and honey. There’s not much to add to Prieth’s description; I completely agree. Another 80s fragrance worth having, recommended for those who like fragrances like Givenchy Gentleman. That said, I feel it has more nocturnal or evening use, as well as winter use, since it’s warmer than fresh.

It’s one of those stately, old-school perfumes, like a grandpa, haha. Very relaxing, almost like a cologne. I liked it; it’s just a matter of style and taste 😉

At first, it smells like honey with lemonade; the opening is strong. Then patchouli, rose, and leather kick in. It’s from the late eighties, inspired by classics like Givenchy Gentleman, Giorgio, or Boss Nº1 (if you look at the notes, it’s very similar). It has less refinement than Gentleman, with a wilder honey, but everything fits perfectly. The result is very masculine, even though some might be scared off by so much honey and flowers, hehe. In the end, it smells like fine talcum powder with leather, patchouli, and honey. It’s sweet, ideal for winter or autumn, for mature people or young folks looking for something different. It lasts a long time and leaves a heavy trail. The problem is it seems discontinued… I bought a miniature to try it. If you find it and like this style, don’t hesitate.