Voyageur

1 reseña

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• Cosmoloid

  August 16, 2019

  

  I think everyone knows the story: Jean Kerléo, the genius behind masterpieces, stepped into a competition with the era’s best-seller, Cool Water. Everyone wanted that aquatic note. Kerléo’s challenge was to maintain Patou’s luxury in a perfume built around ‘calone,’ that trendy commercial note. He used it, of course, but anchored it in his signature mossy, woody base. While the bottle is gorgeous and the scent is pleasant, that oakmoss base ultimately doomed it; today, the few remaining units are hard to sell. Critics complain that Voyageur doesn’t reach the heights of gems like Patou PH, and they’re right—it can feel indifferent—but it deserves a second chance without being constantly compared to his other works. What does it smell like? It opens with a potent citrus burst that evaporates quickly, blending with lavender, sage, and that noticeable oakmoss from the very first second. It touches on sandalwood, cedar, and that aquatic note that would be discarded today, but Kerléo kept it restrained within that strong aromatic base. It’s a warm aquatic, lacking that annoying metallic edge, and carries that unique stamp that only a house like Patou could demand. The box includes a fold-out depicting a journey where florals and woods unite with natural essences; everything smells natural, yet that aquatic note lingers, reminding us this is from another time that never returns. Kerléo didn’t know then that Voyageur was a one-way trip, with its destination being the port called IFRA. Full stop.