Soleil Brûlant by Tom Ford

I’ve tried it several times, most recently up close: it’s the most different Soleil, polarizing, less summery, and more unisex. On my skin, it’s a super amber and resinous scent with honey and orange blossom. It’s linear, very warm, dense, and enveloping; I don’t see it for summer. Surprisingly, it’s explosive at first with a heavy trail for the first two hours, then drops down to something very intimate. I find it original and distinct, but not for me.

Soleil Brûlant is a beast. No nonsense, it smells like a super fleshy orange blossom bathed in a slightly honeyed syrup. Super resinous and amber; I don’t pick up on the incense. It’s linear, except when it dries down it feels more woody. Lasts about 5 hours with great projection for the first two, then fades so much it sits close to the skin like a body cream, just like Soleil Blanc. It’s been a long time since I’ve liked a perfume this much. It’s perfect for a spring in Extremadura, but the price is… hell. I can’t afford it! 💣💣 If Carnal Flower by Frédéric is the ultimate exposure to neroli, I’d say Soleil Brûlant is the orange blossom equivalent. Mr. Ford, please lower those prices!

Soleil brûlant smells rich in the cold: resinous, sweet, and citrusy. I think it’s the best assembled in the Soleil line, competing with Soleil Neige as its winter counterpart. Opens with bergamot and spiced mandarin, alongside dark honey that reminds me of my mom’s lemon medicine. As it settles, the citrus disappears, leaving bitter floral flashes of orange and a mix of ambers and resins that sweeten everything. It has a dessert reminiscence without being gourmand. Longevity is incredible, over 12 hours, thanks to the resins. Projection of over three hours, very loud and airy. It’s unisex, though it seems more feminine to me. Ideal for winter, autumn, or cool spring. Usable all day, less formal than other house proposals. High price but worth it for its longevity and projection. It’s one of the best Tom Fords and very little commented on compared to Noir or classics like Oud Wood. Try it, you won’t regret it.

The Burning Sun is a jewel in the Soleil family; between Blanc Neige and Brulant, this one stands out as the most distinguished and least mass-market. If Neige wins on originality, Blanc remains the popular and sweet option. Upon trying it, it starts with freshly squeezed mandarin and pepper, then evokes a crystallized orange dessert before the honey and orange blossom take over. It’s a warm summer scent that nonetheless feels aggressive: honey, incense, amber, and resin create an imposing Bengal tiger. I noticed a hidden minty touch that adds freshness amidst the heat, giving it that special pulse. I loved it for its originality and excellent notes: a dark, medicinal honey not for daily use and a jasmine that screams summer. It’s not 100% gourmand but has that oriental sweetness. Longevity is phenomenal, over 12 hours on skin, confirming its Tom Ford pedigree. Projection is inconsistent: it radiates strongly for the first 4 hours, then drops until it’s like a sleeping tiger softly snoring. I recommend trying it several times as it’s the most difficult in the Soleil line.