Santal Austral by Matiere Premiere

A luxurious creamy composition where sandalwood shines brighter than iris, quite different from Perris Montebello. Elegant, enveloping, and warm, it projects strongly and lasts all day. You can tell the quality of the ingredients; it evokes maturity. As always, test before buying.

Sweet and warm, it starts with a fresh iris that quickly yields to a blend of benzoin and powdery tonka bean. The sandalwood isn’t a distinct note but a creamy embrace wrapping around that sweetness. Lasts over 8 hours with a powerful trail (watch out with the sprays). It’s not sharp, but if you overdo it, it can become overwhelming. Smells like a child of Pegasus PDM and Luna Rossa Black, but without the metallic edge of the first and with more sweetness. Dry down is identical to PDM. Ideal if you like sweet and warm scents without annoying spices. Highly recommended.

Not that typical creamy milky sandalwood, but a resinous, stately wood where tonka bean dominates in the dry down. I see it as both masculine and feminine, very elegant. The trail is huge: I sprayed it in my room and the scent lasted an hour and a half, noticeable from outside my brother’s room.

Although it’s a sandalwood-based fragrance, don’t expect sandalwood to dominate. It’s resinous, talc-like, and ambered, where iris, tonka bean, and resins set the pace. Longevity and projection are enormous. An exquisite composition.

In my last sample purchase from Matiere Premiere, I thought this would be my favorite due to the sandalwood and iris, but I was surprised that I didn’t like it; ‘Encens Suave’ was my preferred one. I know everyone loves Santal Austral, but I want to share my opinion: it starts with iris, lots of sandalwood, and an almond-milky touch, turning powdery and dry. In the base, benzoin and tonka stand out. My issue is the dry down: I find it sharp, sour, and grating, just like with Santal 33. It’s not the mega creamy and soft sandalwood I’m looking for, like in Gris Charnel or Milky Musk. I think I’m loyal to Mysore sandalwood, and this Australian one feels rough and bitter to me. Projection is moderate and longevity is high; excellent on clothes (I washed the garment and it still smells). It’s not unbearable, I don’t dislike it from a distance, but it bothers me on my skin, so I won’t use it. I don’t want to hate sandalwood because of this.

‘Santal Austral’ is probably my favorite perfume from what I’ve tried so far in Matière Première. This is a scent whose protagonist is sandalwood. A sweet, warm, and balsamic sandalwood. Also slightly talcy due to the iris. Extremely creamy, and even sometimes, throughout its evolution, I perceive a lactonic point that makes it almost gourmand. Super versatile (though quite elegant) and totally unisex. Ideal for medium/cool temperatures. Without being a beast mode on me like other scents from the house, it wraps you in a beautiful cloud that accompanies you for > 8 hours. In summary, a spectacular creation; maybe not as unique as others (I recognize that ‘Encens Suave’, for example, is more original) but very addictive. Personally, it suits me better and I love wearing it. For the upcoming autumn/winter, I’m getting the 100mL.

Of the Matiere Premiere perfumes, this is the one that convinces me the least. It smells like dusty drawer mixed with a waxy sweetness. In the dry down, the balsamic sweetness of benzoin appears, soft and subtle, identical to ‘Encens Suave’. I perceive the scent as quite dry, with iris very present. I think it’s unisex, leaning masculine, with good longevity and projection. It’s pleasant, has warmth, and I’ll finish the sample with pleasure, but I won’t buy it.