Men
Moustache Eau de Toilette Concentree
Acordes principales
Descripción
Rochas Moustache Eau de Toilette Concentrée is an aromatic fougère fragrance for men. Launched in 1948, this composition was created by Edmond Roudnitska and Theresa Roudnitska. Its opening unfolds with a vibrant top note of lemon, citron, bergamot, lavender, petit grain, and basil. The sweet floral heart is built around honey, geranium, carnation, rose, and jasmine, while the base settles elegantly with oakmoss, musk, cedar, amber, vanilla, and tonka bean.
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Comunidad
253 votos
- Positivo 85%
- Negativo 13%
- Neutral 2.0%
Pirámide olfativa
Estructura completa de la fragancia: de la salida al fondo.
Comunidad
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Propiedad
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Uso recomendado
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Longevidad
Escasa
Débil
Moderada
Duradera
Muy duradera
Estela
Suave
Moderada
Pesada
Enorme
Género
Femenino
Unisex femenino
Unisex
Unisex masculino
Masculino
Precio
Extremadamente costoso
Ligeramente costoso
Precio moderado
Buen precio
Excelente precio
Reseñas
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4 reseñas
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One of the great classic citrus men’s perfumes, an honored predecessor to beasts like Signor Ricci and the omnipresent Acqua di Giò and Light Blue. It’s super citrusy, very woody, and has that green chypre spirit that everyone loves. Its name takes us back to the era when having a mustache was a sign of distinction, just like wearing such a fragrance. I think you can smell reminiscences of this gem in Eau Sauvage, which Roudnitska created later for Dior in 1966, and also in Diorella from 1972 (the original, not the reformulation), which for me are masked chypres. And perhaps later Nicolas Mamounas had these three creations by Roudnitska in mind to make his famous Eau De Rochas for the same house? Maybe. For me, these four are very similar: Moustache, Eau Sauvage, Diorella, and Eau de Rochas all have intense citrus notes mixed with oakmoss, bringing them close to chypres, and floral notes that, although they stay deep in the background, deliciously modulate that forest and hesperide scent. All four are very fresh but dry, soapy, and very powdery, to the point that one could say they’re a bit rough. How far Moustache is from those carefree fruity scents of today. This was truly a classy fruity men’s perfume.
When I arrived at Fragrantica (a bit more than two years ago) looking for info on past perfumes and being a huge fan of the Rochas house, I stumbled upon Moustache and the excellent text Maeva left here to give a historical dimension to this beautiful creation. Today I finally have a 75ml bottle in my hands of this beautiful specimen that has joined the list of discontinued items tagged as vintage. In Moustache and its formula lies the DNA of countless fragrances created much later; it’s an aromatic peak just like Worth Pour Homme. But what do we have here? Three sprays on my left inner arm and after waiting my rigorous 10 seconds, there is: an acute citrus explosion, bright sensations similar to those aftershaves, loaded with the same citrus and lavender that quickly descend to a rough, talc-laden, even vibrantly saturated bed where a floral edge is tied by the honey note, and the tension and vibration generate “dry anise sparks.” The whole thing is masculine to the max… in its DNA I see Lomani Pour Homme sprouting, the pillar supporting Paco Rabanne PH, and also by moments Loewe PH and so many other alpha males. After 20 minutes, we have a very long descent where its fougère side, as Maeva says, acts as a mask since the whole denotes more of a chypre nature due to its saturated association of floral notes with its wood and oakmoss base. After an hour and until the end, we have a talc-dusted floral bouquet with tiny sparks of a bitter lemon; this phase is very classic and beautiful, with a village-like vibe that generates a kind of sweat smell, something akin to tanned leather polished with lemon oil; the whole thing is dense and robust. Undoubtedly Edmond Roudnitska and Theresa Roudnitska with their Moustache contributed immensely to the world of aromas; one just has to look at their time at Dior and review their legacy… Moustache, fortunately, has reached us today, but unfortunately, it has gone and will not return.
I came to Fragrantica looking for info on vintage perfumes and as a big Rochas fan, I found Moustache thanks to Maeva’s text. Today I finally have my 75ml bottle of this discontinued specimen. Its formula contains the DNA of many later fragrances; it’s a peak like Worth Pour Homme. Three sprays on the inner arm and after ten seconds: an acute, brilliant citrus explosion, bright like citrus and lavender aftershaves, that quickly drops to a rough, talc-like, vibrant base where a floral edge ties in with honey. It generates dry anise sparks. It’s masculine to the max; in its DNA I see Lomani Pour Homme, Paco Rabanne PH, Loewe PH, and other alpha males sprouting. After 20 minutes, a long descent where its fougère side acts as a mask, denoting a chypre nature due to the saturated floral notes with a wood and oakmoss base. After an hour, a bouquet of talc-dusted florals with tiny sparks of bitter lemon; very classic and beautiful, with a village-like vibe that smells of sweat, tanned leather polished with lemon oil. Everything is dense and robust. Edmond and Theresa Roudnitska contributed so much to the world; Moustache has reached us, but unfortunately, it’s gone and won’t return.
I tried this more than two years ago when I was a teenager; although it sounds like an adult perfume, it was one of the most beautiful, rare, and delicious scents I’ve ever had. It highlights rose, tonka bean, vanilla, and honey with a sweet citrus touch and a very smoky vibe. It’s a gem, a work of art that I would use again with love and devotion.