Mandragore by Goutal

I absolutely love this fragrance: fresh and spicy, it opens with a potent bergamot that softens into a light oriental touch. It has a dry, powdery base that makes it feminine, but on my skin it settles into a balanced ginger complemented by a very pleasant and unique anise. It’s a subtle oriental, perfect for a walk or the office without being loud. The evolution is optimal, though the sillage is moderate; the longevity is good—I can still smell it softly after 8 hours. Totally unisex and very stylish.

Mandragore is inspired by the mandrake, used in rituals and legends. According to the website, it’s a magical interpretation with the energy of bergamot and ginger, sharp notes of black pepper. It’s herbal, fresh with mint and bergamot, combined with spices like anise, ginger, and pepper; it smells like a medicinal potion. Its performance is improvable (from light to moderate), but it’s precious. It’s based on mint, bergamot, and spices, with cold, round textures and sharp edges. The notes are natural, combined in a cold spell with subtle resinous hints. The anise reminds me of faded cinnamon and the ginger briefly overwhelms. The black pepper isn’t as sharp as the website says, but rather round and fluid. It’s invigorating, reminding me of laburnum bushes, autumn pines, and winter plane trees in Celtic Europe, or the mandrake broth from Harry Potter. Its green packaging recalls magical potions, like Ninfeo Mio or Eau du Ciel. Although the performance is reproachable in terms of sillage, the longevity isn’t so bad. It’s not transgressive; it’s minimalist and ethereal but fulfilling. Unlike overwhelming herbaceous aromas like Miss Dior or Magie Noire, Mandragore is usable in many circumstances, although its sharp mood limits its use in the cold. It’s abstract, well-executed, and honors its price, which isn’t as high as it seems.

The opening is pepper and bergamot, then it moves to anise and a bit of mint, though I barely notice the mint. After that, it smells green, probably juniper, which isn’t my thing. It’s a bitter green, like grass but less fresh, more like being surrounded by hedges. The performance is poor; it projects little and doesn’t last long. Honestly, I prefer it this way because I just didn’t like the scent. It’s unisex and for hot weather, only for those who enjoy it.

In Annick Goutal’s Mandragore, there’s a clean, sweet, and citrusy aroma with a balanced unisex personality. Although the scent profile is linear and could be boring, the beauty of the smell makes it worthwhile. The opening is vital, like a cascade of limes and citrus with anise and ginger, perfect for daily wear and it lasts through three seasons. At times, it reminds me of Cartier’s Declaration or Hermes’ Voyage, both by Ellena. It’s minimal, ethereal, and not a must-have for collectors; I bought it on sale at the start of winter and I still use it today. Medium longevity and discreet sillage.

From start to finish, bergamot dominates with a touch of anise. It’s unisex, and although I prefer perfumes defined by gender, I liked this one. Where I live, it’s very hot, and it’s special for that climate; it stays fresh for the whole hour with that citrus sensation, like lime, very clean and pleasant. On my skin, it lasted about 12 hours with 4 applications in the diffuser (the last ones near the skin but still perceptible). It’s unisex, slightly sporty, for warm or temperate climates, and for those over 20. Unlike Nuit Etoilée, this has very good longevity and projection. I recommend it!

My first thought: this is what D&G wanted to achieve with The One and failed to do. Here, the iris is much more decent. Mint, star anise, and ginger? Exactly, it’s exquisite. With Annick Goutal, there’s no truce: you either love it or hate it. It’s perfect unisex (more feminine, but I would wear it). The bottles are rectangular or oval depending on whether a man or a woman buys it.