Fille en Aiguilles by Serge Lutens

I managed to get a decant, and it’s pure magic: dark, resinous, with real pine sap, yet soft and elegant, offering that calm any end-of-year party craves. I’ve tried other conifers like Arso or Bottega Veneta, but nothing compares. A jewel of French perfumery.

Impressive balsamic aroma, dense and penetrating, enveloping you instantly. It’s dark, green, almost esoteric, liturgical, and mysterious with its incense; it sparks curiosity. It’s as if a forest fairy is brewing a magic potion to take you to a parallel world. On a deep breath, you feel the warmth of the sun, melancholy, and then a bright note of Mediterranean conifers. Rafasant has let me discover something complex, not very versatile but of high caliber, for those seeking something uncommon.

‘Fille en Aiguilles’ or the ‘warmth of a Mediterranean forest’. That’s exactly it. Although it carries incense, it steers clear of Lutens’ orientalism and is pure conifer. Its name fits perfectly. It smells like turpentine. Smelling it while living inland in the Mediterranean, I felt immersed in a pine grove on a summer afternoon. Very evocative. It’s pure niche; I haven’t heard anything like it. Longevity, projection, and sillage are moderate. Due to its warmth, it’s ideal for late afternoens in autumn and winter. Lutens can be proud of meeting the standards of a good niche perfume.

I like it. From the start, what I smell most is pine with a potent incense; sometimes it smells like a forest, other times like a church. There’s something else, perhaps laurel or fir. The nutty notes are very subtle and give it the perfect touch of sweetness. It’s a curious perfume, reminding me a bit of HdP’s 1828 due to the pine. It’s fairly linear, suitable for autumn, winter, and spring, during the day. Longevity and trail are moderate.

This is the scent of Christmas: pine, fir, incense, balms, and frosted fruits, with spices and sweetness that isn’t gourmand. A perfect balance between mystical smoke and snowy woods with colored lights. Sheldrake puts everything in the cocktail shaker and creates Christmas magic in aroma, one of his best compositions for Lutens. Every year, when setting up the tree and decorating the house, I dust off my F. en A. bottle and use it until the holidays are over. A wonder made into scent, good quality, and quite wearable. Rating: 9.1

My favorite Serge Lutens? Without a doubt, among those I’ve tried. Here things are simple: pine, incense, caramel, and little more. With these three notes, it creates a balsamic, reflective, relaxing atmosphere with romantic and evocative imagery. Smelling it, I think of an abandoned church in the middle of a pine forest. Very well-composed with good longevity, although its projection is rather discreet, staying close to the skin. A ‘Fille en aiguilles’ projecting like a demon would be spectacular, but I understand it would break its spirit. Note: 8.5/10

A good Serge Lutens perfume, but you need to know what you’re getting into. If you don’t like smelling like pine, skip it. It’s not one of my favorite Lutens, but it’s still very good. The opening smells like pine and nuts, with a sweet and smoky touch. After a while, a balsamic and medicinal syrup becomes noticeable. As it dries down, it becomes more woody, highlighting the pine even more. Longevity is good, about 8 hours, but apply it sparingly. Projection is somewhat discreet. Recommended for cold climates, and I see it as more masculine than feminine.

To me, this is a masterpiece by Serge Lutens. Pine resin with incense, all nicely sweetened by nutty and balsamic notes. It’s more than enough. Very intense at first, but within a few hours, the sillage and longevity drop to 4-5 hours, with the trail becoming quite subtle after the first hour. Not for everyone—it smells like a very luxurious, refined Christmas tree, lol. Among pine-based resinous fragrances like Arso or Wazamba, this Lutens is the most wearable and fresh. Absolute masterpiece.