Chamade by Guerlain

Chamade was one of the few Guerlain classics I still had to try in good condition. Apart from the four pillars the brand doesn’t take much care of its emblems; it’s not rare to approach a stand and find no testers. The other day I got to try it. I remember sampling it years ago with minis and those samples given away in a golden cardboard box but I had completely forgotten its aroma. I like Guerlain and would be a fool not to know how to value their great creations. I like it but aside from a few most aren’t for me. They all have in the dry-down that accord called ‘guerlinade that boudoir tone of vanillas and powdery resins that unifies most of their perfumes. I m into more dynamic cold and rational perfumes and Guerlain is the opposite. Chamade is a very curious perfume; it ventures into aldehydes something rare for Guerlain and also into sixties green-floral woody notes which is uncharacteristic for the brand. The trick is that in the end the vanilla-infused resins appear reminding you that this has a name and reputation and that no matter how trendy the first two phases are for their years the dry-down is signed Guerlain. I don’t want to beat around the bush because although it seems like a pretty perfume I found it somewhat plain. It sounds contradictory because I keep emphasizing how well-worked the evolution is; practically it’s three perfumes in one overlapping like a theater curtain separating acts. But it didn’t fully win me over. I feel it falls short in all its phases although maybe some people find their charm in this because Chamade is a very wearable perfume and also why not say it ultra-refined. The first phase is aldehydic and fresh reminding you irremediably of Chanel No. 5 which doesn’t stop being true even if it’s a cliché. When galbanum is added it floods the rest of the flowers with a very nice green tone; besides it’s not a raw bitter oily and strong galbanum as was the style at the time; this one is buttery more than galbanum alone there’s its country mist accompanying a very delicate rose/hyacinth combo. Neither the rose is wild nor rough nor is the hyacinth super floral and detergent-like; both are butter green butter. In the background there are still some very nice aldehydes that smell like cold light instead of lacquer. In the third phase is when the Peru balsams enter with their medicinal resin thing a medicinal plaster sweet and expectorant; they confirm that this is a Guerlain and that without vanilla iris or amber they weren’t willing to lose their French dressing-room dry-down. The Peru balsam (by the way I’m hearing that both Peru and Tolu are variations of the same formula our Latin American colleagues can confirm because it’s still used in households) is dialed in to not overwhelm or be the protagonist simply conferring a sensual balsamic and warm finish to the aldehydic floral wrapper. A pretty well-made perfume with a touch of cold pastel green light facing a warmer and erotic dry-down. The old bottle is a masterpiece. It didn’t fully win me over because I see it as somewhat indefinite and washed-out plus feminine and maternal. For my taste it lacks either dynamism at the start or sex at the end. Obviously I’m not a potential customer for them; there will be people who find their perfect perfume in its restrained tone. What I liked most was seeing how years ago houses ventured into the trends of the moment more youthful without losing their essence. And that’s exactly what Guerlain did with Chamade: an aldehydic floral that looks much like Hermès Rochas or Nina Ricci but wins out like a Guerlain with an undeniably oriental dry-down. P.S. Edited to add that some people compare it to Hermès Parfum d’Hermès. To me they don’t resemble each other; both are aldehydic florals that later turn into sweet resin here Peru balsam there myrrh. Hermès has much less galbanum than this plus ylang and iris which are key to positioning it as a more mature perfume. This Chamade even being a mature perfume has something delicate and misty that doesn’t exist in Parfum d’Hermès (it’s a flatter perfume without any poetry).

Since I was a kid I’ve always preferred Guerlain classics especially for that Guerlinade accord that makes them unique and easy to identify. Chamade is one of them: a timeless classic that goes with everything and evolves brilliantly. At first the aldehydes hit you hard (it’s basically an aldehydic fragrance) but then it turns into something floral with a hyacinth that gives it personality. It’s a warm hyacinth with soft oriental touches of benzoin and a dry slightly toasted vanilla base. It has class leaves good memories and is very feminine. It suits any age and occasion (except sporty styles which don’t suit me). A Guerlain classic to keep in mind for girls or women who want to leave a personal and elegant mark.

I’m a man but as a perfume fan whenever I can I try feminine fragrances to explore new nuances. I define Chamade in three words: aldehydic floral and balsamic. At first the aldehydes gave me a strong push until I felt nauseous reminding me of Chanel No. 5. As time passed the flowers emerged especially hyacinth and jasmine. In the end I noticed lots of amber and vanilla giving it a balsamic touch. It’s a complex and classic fragrance ideal for a woman over sixty although it depends more on identification than age; my aunt has been wearing it since her forties and it suits her perfectly. It has great longevity so it’s better for cold days.

The first blast is sweet hyacinth and lilac with soft rose. Everything is very well mixed and with a lot of softness no boom. Surrounded by a balsamic and fresh aroma. A few minutes later the jasmine becomes more prominent and the aroma becomes even sweeter. Galbanum along with balsamic aromas dominates the scent almost the entire time. Amber and vanilla are barely detected only at the end. It’s basically a floral perfume with slight oriental touches. It’s very elegant and somewhat nostalgic.