Eau d’Hadrien by Goutal

The birth of niche perfumery was a creative rebellion against the standardization of the 70s and 80s. The reason wasn’t just to use ‘different materials,’ but to restore perfume’s status as a work of art. That’s what I feel seeing the box details, the beautifully designed bottle nestled in a golden ocre satin wrap. Everything is cared for, thought out; every part is a whole. Annick Goutal as niche perfumery aimed to return to the artisanal, to the freedom of the nose to do what it ‘felt like.’ No longer being enslaved by a concept imposed by a fashion brand to please the masses. Returning to the roots, to perfumery before mass industrialization. Her first fragrance was inspired by her love for Italy and the novel ‘Memoirs of Hadrian.’ The Mediterranean as the axis, the sun beating down on citrus orchards, the imposing cypress trees. The key landscape to start the spell of her fragrance, which saw the light in the 80s, going completely against the trend, but that was the idea of being ‘different.’ From the first spray comes that realistic citrus note, an orgy of lemon, apple, and grapefruit, where for me, the apple stands out above the others because its sweet side prevents the acidity from being too prominent. It’s a very similar note that reminds me of YSL Pour Homme from the 70s, with the same excellently executed realistic citrus note. But while Pour Homme decided to go fully herbal/musky, Annick stays more innocent and crystalline, with the mentioned citrus notes and now adding a rich mandarin note that vibrates from the heart of the base. But there’s more… a tiny touch of juniper and cypress to give it depth; it’s barely perceptible. The idea is to keep that citrus opening in the spotlight while generating robustness, a smoky, slightly herbal sensation. Like a work of art where beauty is taken to the extreme without exaggeration, everything measured to synchronize. It’s a jewel… it’s the kiss of an angel falling from the sky at sunset in the middle of a field of orange blossoms. The kiss is intense, like most at first, then fades, leaving only the memory. The EDP I’m reviewing projects moderately; after 3 hours, it’s close to the skin. It’s not easy to capture the beauty for so long.

What a beautiful perfume. Even being a citrus, it’s well-made with quite acceptable longevity.

Hey, it smells almost exactly like Escale à Portofino… that one I never liked and gave to my mother. Maybe it’ll do the same to this. I imagined it differently, and it was a blind buy.

The best citrus perfume I’ve tried. It surpasses Dior’s Escale and Loewe’s Aire Fantasia. It has great quality, is elegant and cheerful. For me, it’s more feminine than masculine. That said, it’s very expensive, but it’s niche, so it’s understandable.

Eau d’Hadrien is citrus, woody, green, and super fresh. The opening is a bomb of citrus with aldehydes, notes of lemon, lime, and a herb similar to citronella or lemon verbena. I like it a lot because the citrus sounds almost natural. Over time, the lime and herb persist, but cypress emerges, giving it a woody and bitter touch. Ideal for the day due to the freshness, perfect for spring and summer. The projection starts strong but drops quickly to skin scent, although it lasts more than 6 hours. It’s not something to buy blindly due to the price, but if you like citrus, give it a try at least.

I was gifted a miniature months ago and didn’t use it until today. The opening is very fresh and linear with citrus notes (lemon, grapefruit…). The only development is that it loses intensity over time. It’s very pleasant, giving a sense of cleanliness and summer… FIFI Award worthy? A scandalous price for what it is. They might say simplicity and quality, but to me, it’s just a little lemon. For the price, it’s not worth it, not even joking.

Got a miniature a few months ago and finally used it today. Citrus opening (lemon, grapefruit…) very fresh and linear. The only thing I notice is that it loses intensity over time. It’s very pleasant, gives a sense of cleanliness and freshness, like summer… FIFI Award? A scandalous price for what it is. They’ll say it’s simplicity and quality like the old days, but to me it’s just a little lemon. For the price, it’s not worth it. Not even joking.

I already knew Annick Goutal was going to be my thing. Looking for a citrus that wouldn’t get lost by other notes, I fell hard for it, just like with Shiseido Tactics. The naturalness is surprising. I only detect three notes: a juicy lemon, a sparkling touch of tangerine, and a balsamic hint of cypress. Few notes, and no more are needed to steal the senses. It’s like a play with three actors: the lead and two supporting roles that enhance their performance. A pastoral landscape, a woman on the porch, a grove of lemon trees under radiant sun, and the murmur of water. You can even hear the cicadas singing. No special effects, just a masterful script. It’s cheerful, energetic, jovial, not sweet but it sweetens the mood. Unisex and perfect for the whole family, impossible to get bored. Informal yet distinguished. For spring and summer, or in the cold to remember the sun. On my skin, it lasted 5 hours; the trail is brutal at first, then blends with the skin, recalling nearby bursts. To enjoy alone or with company.

At first, it seemed too simple, even absurd that it won an award, but wearing it made me understand why. After all that, I don’t have much more to add: it’s a proper citrus fragrance, exquisite despite its simplicity. The cypress note adds something different and very pleasant. Drakecito gifted me a decant along with Cedrat Enivrant; of the two, this one seemed simple at first, but with wear, I discovered its magic. Though they seem like ‘sisters’ since they’re almost all citrus, each is unique and extraordinary, delicious. It’s like being in a wet citrus garden with damp grass. Every time I wear it, it feels refreshing, very different from supermarket colognes thanks to the quality and realism of its notes. It’s highly addictive, and since it’s so natural, it rarely gets boring. Projection is great for the first two hours, and it’s a joy to wear; afterward, the trail is short but pleasant. Simple? Maybe. Quality and originality? Lots of it!

If you like lemon, this is a must-have. It’s basically lemon with a very distinct cypress note. On my skin, while you can detect the citrus and aldehydes, lemon and cypress take the lead. Because of that note and the acidity, unlike Azurii, I find it slightly more masculine, though it’s totally unisex. A classic winner of the FIFI Awards as the best niche/indie perfume in 2008. It has good longevity and sillage for this style: on my skin it lasts 4-5 hours with a noticeable but not overpowering trail. Perfect for summer, though I sometimes wear it in winter to remember better days. It always smells very natural. Warning: if you don’t like lemon, don’t even try it. Just for curiosity, I prefer the EDT over the EDP because it’s sharper and I can distinguish the notes better. Fresher and punchier! I love it.

The opening is a sweet lemon or lime, followed by fresh mandarin juice like an effervescent effluvium that blends into the refreshing citrus note, which prevails the most. Then the floral accent emerges, deepened and anchored by subtle aldehydes that soften and evoke emotion in me. Currently, it’s my favorite for sleeping, but also great for sunny mornings. Due to the soft dry-down with aldehydes and floral notes, I feel it’s more suitable for women (it doesn’t shine as much on male skin). Lasts around 5 hours with moderate to faint sillage, but with heat, it offers a constant trail. A fragrance for personal enjoyment, leisure, and relaxation. Note: I always perceive the lime, like a constant sound in the structure. To my nose, the citrus is the favorite instrument, like a cheerful clarinet over violins. All instruments are beautiful, but the solo arias lift my spirits better.

I’m a user of Hermès (Concentre d’Orange Verte and Eau d’Orange Verte 2009) and I won’t dare say it’s better, but I agree with the previous reviewer that this one has better fixation, sillage, and longevity. It’s much more aromatic than the Hermès ones (those are wilder and more direct). Love at first and second sniff!!!!

Love at first sniff! I’m almost certain that if any expert makes a Top 10 of aromatic citrus fragrances, this gem of perfumery will be included.