‘Ilm by Xerjoff

Love at first sniff, there’s no other way to put it. It was a blind, risky purchase, but the price and the feeling of taking the next step in my personal journey into the world of oud convinced me. I’d already gotten used to scents that might be a challenge for some but not for others: Alexandria III and Luxor by Xerjoff, Oud Aquilaria by Oman Luxury, or Flamenco Extrait by Ramón Monegal. I even wear Afrika Olifant by Nishane, a madness of castoreum, oud, and musk. They no longer posed a challenge for me, so I felt ready to explore more complex and less mass-pleasing territories. During tastings with friends, I heard about The Moon by Frederic Malle and Alhambra Oud by Monegal; those extreme oud profiles fascinated me. While researching, I reached the Kemi line, which is now unreachable at reasonable prices, so I opted for the viable alternative: the Xerjoff K line. That’s how I found Ilm. Let me be clear: this beauty isn’t for beginners. I think I arrived at the perfect moment because, without that prior journey, this fragrance would likely have disgusted me. The opening is openly fecal and intensely animalic, but pay attention: don’t panic or rush to wash the area. The magic happens during the dry-down. Gradually, a deep, elegant, and sensual sweetness emerges that masterfully balances the initial rawness. That’s the charm of Laotian oud, which is sweeter than others. I’m not an expert nose, but I perceive something fruity and dense alongside the oud. Simply wow. Nothing more could be added. It’s an absolute must-try for those committed to this endless journey, especially if oud is already part of it. I must be honest: regarding the composition, I expected better longevity; in that regard, it left something to be desired. I suspect that with time and oxidation, this could improve, as happens with many perfumes of this profile. I’ll keep experimenting and waiting for the right occasion to wear it as it deserves. One last tip: 50 ml is more than enough.

DELICIOUS if you like oud—you’ll love it. It’s a sweet, edible, exquisite Laotian oud. At first, it lacks many nuances, but as it dries down, the projection drops and it becomes a less animalic, much more wearable oud; paired with amber, it creates a top-tier combination. I recommend it; I tried it and absolutely loved it. Maybe I’ll buy it soon if stock allows, otherwise, I’ll grab another bottle of Kemi, which I consider superior: it takes the same path but features a vanilla and caramel base that makes it more usable and enjoyable, unlike this one.