Diaghilev

9 reseñas

Mostrando las más recientes primero.

• kjarr

  December 16, 2019

  

  As of today, my favorite perfume, and with that I say it all. I feel compelled to say it’s impossible to describe this blend of notes; I counted over 30 on Fragrantica, so I’ll stick to what it makes me feel. The brand speaks of ‘undiluted decadence’ and isn’t off the mark. It’s not from the 10s or the 21st century; it belongs to past eras. Despite being born later, I get the impression it’s from the first half of the 20th century and represents the opulence of that time. I associate opulence, extraordinary wealth, and pomp with decadence. This Diaghilev is opulent and, therefore, decadent. I also associate it with what was and will never return. It’s hard to explain. It brings me back to the fragrances my aunt or grandmother used in the 70s, perfumes with history, formulated in the first half of the century. It doesn’t just displace me in time, but in space: it takes me to Portugal I knew in my youth, with opulent buildings demonstrating the wealth of the sister country, and at the same time decadent, with beautiful, over-decorated facades stained by lichens in the humidity. It was a fascinating sensation. It doesn’t smell exactly like anything nor is it feminine, but the trail returns me to my childhood family and youth in Portugal, with lost moments in time, nostalgia for that happy and idealized time. Diaghilev is unisex and, from my nose, starts feminine before turning masculine; it has phases and is perfectly wearable for both men and women. In women, a sense of elegance, but outdated, ‘vintage,’ and eternally seductive; a photo of Mata-Hari, the fatal woman, comes to mind. In men, I don’t know, I’ve only used it myself. They say it’s very similar to Mitsouko by Guerlain, but I have no opinion because I haven’t heard it, though I insist it’s unisex. Longevity on skin is acceptable, ‘inhabiting’ about 8 hours, with projection in the first two and presence afterwards, there but not scandalous. The price is exorbitant, in line with the opulence, and I don’t know if I should say it reaches obscene levels. Despite this, for less money you can always get a 7.5 ml atomizer to keep with care and use on special occasions. A jewel of great complexity that every lover should smell at least once. A perfume of the kind that are no longer made. EDIT 24-2-21: I read other reviews about the civet note; it’s evident, but never offensive or smelly (cat pee), it integrates perfectly. I add the animalic character.

• Dr.No

  January 31, 2021

  

  Let the show begin! Sergei Diaghilev was a Russian ballet entrepreneur who atomized Mitsouko by Guerlain onto the curtains before starting. They asked Roger (Roja) to pay homage, and it seemed difficult because Mitsouko marked a before and after. Diaghilev is the niche version of Mitsouko. Period. It’s complex to describe, but it’s of better quality with first-hand raw materials. It’s very powdery/powdered, spicy in a classic cut. Expect a perfumed gentleman who reminds you of another era, only for those who like classic perfumery. You need strong character because it’s potent and people will notice your presence. In the dry down (approx. 3h), I detected a VERY subtle peach. On my skin, the rose is noticeable even though it’s not a rose perfume. Very potent and high longevity. Over $1,000 for the bottle? Yes, and they’re worth it. Since I smelled it, I took a year to decide to buy it. Because it’s complex and I didn’t know if I wanted to commit. I liked it from the start, but there are many I like that I don’t buy. I love Diaghilev, my love bloomed a year after meeting it. For those seeking something less gentlemanly, Chypre Palatin is a fantastic option. If Invasion Barbare is the fougere of fougères, Diaghilev is the chypre of chypres. Wonderful!

• laenfermeria

  July 3, 2021

  

  I’ve loved chypres since before I knew those notes formed a family with its own name. But when the Diaghilev sample arrived with a story, like the one Dr. No gifted us, expectations were high. Diaghilev was wonderful, but too powdery for me. Since then, I dreamed of that fragrance, but one with that powdery note toned down. And then it happened. The answer was discovering MDCI Chypre Palatin. Both born to make the world a little more beautiful, the latter to make me happy.

• Olfactory Memories

  July 13, 2021

  

  Another overrated one from this house, summa cum laude. Good habit of Mr. Roja, though bad for some wallets, blinded by the ‘premium’ letters and the ‘brilli-brilli,’ as if that were linked to the liquid, releasing a composition that, in my opinion, is ‘good,’ but below many others at an absurd price relative to what it offers and its real value, laughing in the face of its buyers. Buyers who, of course, will justify every euro spent, wouldn’t you say. The problem isn’t the composition, which may please or not, or the quality, which it has to a certain extent, but the relationship of those two factors with a price far above, arguing ‘it’s premium’ or ‘it’s luxury.’ No sirs, common sense isn’t at odds with anything, and not everything is justifiable. If Mr. Roja (or others) laugh in the face of their buyers with creations like this, inflated like balloons, as they say, it’s assumed and that’s it, a matter of maturity. And watch out, there are things from this house I like a lot, but please, don’t justify with pedantry when they’re literally robbing you… That’s learned in the university of life, specifically in 1st-year common sense. 🌟🌟🌟

• IvanPerfumista

  January 7, 2023

  

  Finally tried that ‘millionaire scent’ everyone talks about but I never managed to smell. Yes, it smells like money; I pictured a guy driving a Rolls-Royce. Pure luxury with a strong character. Diaghilev is delicious and unique, though the vintage touch from civet brings it remotely close to the classics of the eighties.

• IvanPerfumista

  January 14, 2023

  

  This is the first time I’ve perceived that ‘millionaire smell’ so many mention that I could never feel before. Yes, it smells like millions, like money; I pictured a gentleman in a Rolls-Royce. Luxury, an imprint. Diaghilev is DELICIOUS and unique, though perhaps it has a vintage tone due to the civet, which distantly links it to classics from the early 80s.

• Perfumiris

  March 17, 2024

  

  I got to try this perfume and doubt I’ll ever buy it. The first sniff was total rejection, something that’s never happened to me before; maybe my nose isn’t trained enough. It seemed excessively opulent. I get that it distills pure luxury; it’s not for everyone, it’s for riding in an Aston Martin with a Rolex on your wrist. It felt too animalic and had an endless array of notes; every time I checked the dry down, a different note stood out. The evolution is frenetic: I went from almost repulsive (sorry if that offends, maybe I’m just poor 😅) to being head-over-heels in 2 hours. I’m talking dry down; imagine it on skin. At 24 hours, it smells like luxury talcum powder with rose and leather; I can’t quite define it. It transports me to old palaces, like Versailles, with wealthy characters. An olfactory experience every lover of this world must live. 13/4/24 edit: Wore it on skin today. Impossible to talk about specific notes, there are over 30. What I felt: opulent and dense, an authentic experience. Upon spraying, the animalic notes with citrus and caraway might turn you off. In the dry down, the show begins: the nuances shift so much it’s the perfume with the most evolution I’ve tried, besides being the most expensive. At times, peach and the creaminess of ylang-ylang, sweet and powdery florals; then more mossy-earthy, leather, and fresh green patchouli with spices. Hard to describe: classic, tremendously powdery, slightly sweet, with an addictive animalic note. The finish at 2 hours is spectacular, long-lasting, and projecting. It radiates luxury, as they say. Something I didn’t know I wanted until I smelled DIAGHILEV. Anecdote: I had a dry down on my glasses case, I lost it, but the glasses smell like Diaghilev every time I use them. I won’t forget you 🫶🏻 and I’ll always wear you whenever I can.

• kkkccc

  November 13, 2024

  

  I’ve never smelled Mitsouko, but this is halfway between Jubilation 25 Woman and Aramis. The opening is very citrusy and spicy, which is where it reminds me most of Aramis; I don’t see anything unisex. After a few minutes, the peach appears as the star, accompanied by flowers and leather. In the dry down, it’s a slightly sweet, talc-like spiced leather that again reminds me of a sweeter, floral version of Aramis. The animal-mossy side is present from the first spray and forms the backbone. It’s the quintessential masculine chypre, but if you already own Aramis, Jubilation 25, Gold Man, or anything in that style, this isn’t necessary.

• kkkccc

  November 21, 2024

  

  Never tried Mitsouko, but this feels like a bridge between Jubilation 25 Woman and Aramis. The opening is citrusy and spicy, very faithful to Aramis, with no unisex vibe. Minutes in, the peach hits hard—the king—mixed with florals and leather. In the dry down, it’s spicy leather, slightly sweet and powdery, reminiscent of a sweeter, floral version of Aramis. The animal-mossy base is there from the first spray and forms the backbone. It’s the quintessential masculine chypre, but if you already own Aramis, Jubilation 25, Gold Man, or similar, this isn’t necessary.