Black Rain by Renier Perfumes

Black Rain from the Rain Collection is the one that evolves the most on my skin: it starts as a rose-oud with leather, fresh and clean (it really reminds me of AdP Oud), then yields to a chamomile that sweetens so well it won me over. All the sharpness of the opening softens, giving way to something nothing beastly, not original either, but captivating and smelling great. I must admit, it was the least I liked when I first met Renier, so I insist: it gives more opportunities to scents, even if the drydown isn’t what you expect. For me, it’s unisex, versatile, and suitable for all seasons, nothing heavy. Average performance and good quality. I recommend trying it on skin, especially if you’re looking for a twist on the usual rose-oud. Rating: 8/10. Sample from Cruz & Valencia, Chile.

Hey, it smells good and is easy to wear, but for me, it’s too much. If you’re looking for something uncomplicated, you’ll probably like it. In the end, it’s a perfumer’s signature who knows what they’re doing: flowers, amber, musk… I suppose orthodox and foolproof formulas that, honestly, bore me. In the niche world, I always look for the extraordinary and what surprises me, which this doesn’t deliver. To me, it smells like Black Rain is exactly what commercial perfumery aims for—to please everyone and sell gallons. Here, with higher concentration and careful presentation… the performance doesn’t stand out in projection or longevity.

It arrived as a gift and I’ve been wearing it for two months. The spicy opening makes me furrow my brow, but soon mature red roses with violets bloom, all wrapped in a soft, salty leather. The base is dark: dense patchouli, talc-like musk, and an animalic ambergris. At first, it reminds me of Alaia, but then it becomes deeper and more masculine. Ideal for cold weather and night; it lasts over 8 hours and blends well. For me, it’s a dark rain that soaks right through to the bones: you don’t need an umbrella because it floods everything. It doesn’t clean; instead, it wraps you in nostalgic memories you try to avoid, but sometimes you have to accept them because they’re part of you. Soon the storm will pass and the sun will warm your heart again.

This little gem arrived a few days ago, bought directly from the designer’s website. It opens strong with violets and worked leather, leaving flashes of a serious, elegant rose. At four hours, it’s spectacular: it gives a feeling of luxury and isn’t for everyone. I received several compliments on the first day. It lasts about 10 hours on skin and is noticeable on a scarf after four days. I recommend it, though I note it’s a bit tough; for girls, I would have liked a sweeter base. I’ll be posting a review of another fragrance from this designer in a few days. I’d rate it 8.9.

Typical fragrance with the rose-patchouli combo, but instead of the overused and boring oud, they add violet, leather, and lots of musk. From the start, you notice the rose and patchouli with a leather base and a violet that creeps in gradually until settling in the heart (I’m surprised it’s barely mentioned in other reviews). The drydown is floral and slightly dark, with a sweet undertone. It’s in the heart where the violet settles and feels almost more than the rose. Patchouli and leather remain present, creating a somewhat dirty sensation; the musk lingers until the end. Finally, ambergris and musk extend the fragrance slightly, avoiding an early death on the skin. The performance seemed moderate to poor: noticeable for the first hour, but then it stays very close to the skin and longevity is quite bad; you have to reapply a few hours later. It’s a perfume that smells better at home but fades away when you step outside. I’m not sure if it’s more for men or women, as there are moments that lean masculine and others feminine. Personally, I didn’t like it. It’s a scent that doesn’t convey emotion and doesn’t seem pleasant to me. It’s right on the edge of being a generic perfume to one that becomes outright unpleasant. I’m not saying the quality of the ingredients is bad, simply that it’s a scent I don’t like.

I tested this Renier Mendez perfume, created with Daniel Josier to translate his paintings into olfactory experiences, similar to Olfactive Studio but with photos. It opens with a musky wood that gains strength gradually, perhaps due to other ingredients. At the start, I noticed a spicy touch, like pepper, from the ambergris and patchouli, or maybe just imagination. Then the rose comes out with patchouli and soft leather, while the jasmine is barely noticeable. I liked the rose, less the ambergris, although the blend is interesting. Overall, it’s pleasant and well-balanced. Regarding naturalness, I have doubts: it doesn’t smell very natural, nor artificial like many current perfumes. It fits perfectly with the image of an umbrella under a cloudy sky, the atmosphere before a storm; neither too dark nor cheerful like its sister, Crystal Rain. The trail is moderate, soft, lacking presence, but the longevity is good, over 6-7 hours, though very close to the skin. It’s a good fragrance based on a strange note that didn’t dazzle me at first; I don’t like the musky ambergris much, but I do like its interaction with the rose. It’s intriguing and addictive, maintaining interest for a long time; it’s original and pleasant.

Black Rain opens moderately warm, with a potent musky-woody facet that dominates and becomes more intense as it dries. It’s a very pleasant ambergris (ambroxan) note that tips the scale toward a more masculine side. Rose and jasmine are felt from the start but in the background, mere companions to this ambergris party; the jasmine fades quickly while the rose survives to join a soft patchouli and a delicate suede. Upon drying, sticking close to the skin, it leaves a pretty note of pale rose and ambergris, very fine and balanced, where the amber becomes more ethereal thanks to a soft musk that wraps you placidly. The quality is medium-high with moderate longevity and projection. I didn’t like that it works in the same line as Acqua di Parma Ingredient Collection, it seems like a clone between Oud and Amber, and the longevity could have been improved a bit. On the other hand, I loved the good evolution and harmony with which Josier linked the rose, which ends up great with the final result and the potent ambergris note, making it more versatile, wearable, and less tiring than the Parma ones. Rating: 6.5