Men
Bel Ami
Acordes principales
Descripción
Bel Ami by Hermès is a woody-chypre fragrance for men. Launched in 1986, this composition was created by perfumer Jean-Louis Sieuzac. The top notes unfold with sage, bergamot, cardamom, lemon, and mandarin; the heart reveals carnation, patchouli, cedar, iris root, basil, and jasmine; while the base notes settle into leather, oakmoss, styrax, vetiver, amber, vanilla, and coconut.
Resumen rápido
Pirámide olfativa
Estructura completa de la fragancia: de la salida al fondo.
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Características
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Enorme
Género
Femenino
Unisex femenino
Unisex
Unisex masculino
Masculino
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23 reseñas
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Bel Ami is a luxurious woody chypre, with lots of wood and leather, potent and elegant, almost timeless. For me, it’s one of the best Hermes scents for men, even better than Equipage or Terre, though everyone has their tastes. It seems like a very original fragrance; I haven’t smelled anything like it, although if you look hard, you might find echoes of chypres like Antaeus. On my skin, it lasts a long time and leaves a trail without being invasive, depending on each person’s skin. I don’t see it for daily use; it’s more for semi-formal or formal occasions. Spending money like this daily isn’t worth it if you don’t have the budget. In short, it’s a substantial, rich, and timeless fragrance, a reference for chypre lovers. I give it a ten.
To me, Bel Ami smells like an old perfume; I don’t see it fitting in the general society of the 21st century, which moves every day. This is magnificent, however, for the select reserve of its lovers, as it surely distinguishes them; it smells like a very rich man, bankers, politicians, doctors, lawyers… it’s not for young people or the middle class. I also find its note concentration excessive, ending up blending into the skin like a dark or black ball, with very little sillage except for the opening and an acceptable but skin-close projection. Undoubtedly a great perfume, but within an exclusivity somewhat closed off for the general public, which I think demands other aromas.
I wanted to wait until I got the vintage to compare and give an opinion. The current Bel Ami isn’t bad, but compared to the original, I stick with the latter. It’s like putting a less powerful, simpler engine in a car; the leather in the current version feels like a patch. The citrus and aromatic opening is delicious and fresh, very similar to the current one, but the rest changes. The development is classic, old-school, and infinitely better in the vintage. This is a dry, woody chypre with balsamic tints, featuring a sweet, crunchy leather dry-down, rich in nuances, potent, long-lasting, with a perfect and balanced sillage. The vintage Bel Ami is a pillar of classic men’s perfumery. Plus, it’s one of the best leather scents I’ve tried; if you can get the cocktail bottle, don’t hesitate. Vintage rating: 8.5
I wanted to wait for a vintage version to compare with the current one before giving my opinion. The current Bel Ami isn’t bad, but compared to the vintage, I’d stick with the latter. It’s like putting a less powerful, simpler engine in a car; the leather accord in the current version feels like a patch. The citrus and aromatic opening is delicious, fresh, and promising, very similar to the current one, but the rest is nothing alike. The development is classic, old-school, and infinitely better executed in the vintage. This is a woody, dry chypre with balsamic hints, featuring a sweet, crackling leather dry-down, rich in nuances, potent, long-lasting, with a perfect trail. The vintage Bel Ami is one of the pillars of men’s perfumery of all time and one of the best leathers I’ve ever tried. If you can get it in a decanter, don’t hesitate. Vintage rating: 8.5.
Even though it has been reformulated, it remains one of the best leather scents you can get.
The first time I used it was over 30 years ago, in 1987, at university. It came to me casually and I loved it; it’s totally ’80s, fitting the vibe of the time. I really like the leather that lingers; I don’t know the new version, but I imagine it’s softer since modern ones tend to tone things down. So far, I have a few milliliters of a vintage bottle from that era and use it only for very special occasions. For me, it’s one of my all-time favorites.
I like it. The first thing I notice is cardamom and oakmoss with a citrus and almond touch. Then comes the leather, slightly sweetened by styrax, vanilla, and amber, with a green hint that could be basil and the ever-present oakmoss. It finishes with a woody dry-down featuring cedar and vetiver without losing the leather. It feels elegant, classic, and well-made. I see it for events and formal wear. At some point, it reminded me of Cuir Ottoman, but I prefer Parfum d’Empire. I recommend it to leather lovers. Great for spring, autumn, and winter, day or night. Long-lasting longevity with moderate sillage.
I bought Bel Ami in 1990; I wasn’t an expert yet but liked it because of my father and an uncle. Today I’m buying it again for those memories of my adolescence and that obsession to feel that sweet suede, deep, and elegant scent once more, very much in the spirit of Hermes back then. The Bel Ami cocktail bottle version was a potent bomb, max 4 sprays, because more was suffocating, like flowers that repel up close but, softened by the air, are overwhelmingly beautiful from afar. The current version perhaps, wanting to fit modern standards, has lost some potency, though it remains very good. One must keep in mind that this is a full-weight Hermes. It doesn’t disappoint; it leaves clothes impregnated for weeks, even after washing. The dry-down defines the old spirit: beautiful, masculine, and earthy. In sum, this updated Hermes is worthy, perfect for rainy days, and in autumn and winter, it will melt friends and strangers alike with a scent that connects with the deepest part of our DNA, when skins were cured and impregnated with spices against parasites. Bel Ami is not just earthy; it’s also ethereal: a landscape after rain, with mist rising to a violet sky we observe in silence from the window, still with water droplets.
I bought Bel Ami in 1990 when I wasn’t as into perfume as I am today, but I always liked it because of my father and an uncle. I bought it again recently to relive those teenage memories and chase that obsession of smelling that sweet suede, deep, and elegant scent so typical of Hermes back then. The old cocktail bottle version was a bomb: max 4 sprays, because more was suffocating, just like a flower that smells bad up close but is gorgeous from afar. Nowadays, perhaps to fit modern standards, they’ve toned down the potency, though it remains excellent. Be warned, this is a full-weight Hermes. It doesn’t disappoint; it leaves clothes impregnated for weeks, even after washing. The dry-down is what most reminds me of the original: beautiful, masculine, and earthy. In short, this updated Bel Ami is worthy, perfect for rainy days, and in autumn and winter, it will melt everyone’s heart with a scent that feels like cured human DNA mixed with ancient spices. It’s not just earthy; it’s also ethereal, like a landscape after rain, with mist rising to a violet sky viewed from a wet window.
Starts with a potent woody vetiver and sandalwood base that lasts all day, blending into a heart of leather, amber, and earthy spices. It’s a rich fragrance, perfect for cool days, suitable for both day and night, and highly recommended for those seeking scents that make a statement—very much an ’80s vibe.
A wonderful marvelous perfume; the opening indicates there is magic slightly citrusy and refreshing although this lasts seconds to give way to what is ultimately a leather chypre. It’s very much in the line of perfumes like Borsalino or Antaeus (though without the animal and powder room notes of the latter). It has a lot of body that dense sensation of a completely 80s and masculine perfume but it’s not ‘in the face’; rather it’s perfectly balanced and moves with subtlety and class. In its development it proposes a smoky robust leather sprinkled with herbal floral and earthy notes. As it evolves it reveals its dark and oily character more clearly surrounded by the always effective oakmoss. It’s not a perfume for everyone but rather of very old school but it’s so well-made that one cannot say it has become outdated. Because it’s so elegant its use is limited to formal occasions or dates with women who know what life is about. Soak yourself in Bel Ami put on a blazer go to a bar have a whisky and enjoy adult things. Another very positive aspect is that although it doesn’t have a brutal sillage its longevity is excellent. We can enjoy it for many hours without needing to press our nose against the skin. If you put it on and don’t like it it will be the worst of your nightmares. If you like aquatic sports or gourmands better not to get close. Regarding reformulations: there are three. The original cocktail-shaped bottle impossible to find seems to have been the best constructed. The first reformulation bottle with ‘Bel Ami’ inscribed directly on the glass practically identical to the first but as they say a little lighter. The current formulation bottle with the red label. Jean-Claude Ellena tweaked it a bit and made the opening spicier to modernize it but it still has good performance and hasn’t lost its identity. It’s not a leather like modern ones (for example Gucci Guilty Absolute) which are much more linear and stylized to the point that they are almost unreal. Bel Ami is a work with an 80s spirit but of eternal value.
Many thanks Josesan for letting me try this great perfume. Personally I prefer Equipage but one cannot deny the beauty of this scent. It’s not easy to classify and requires a broad olfactory path to be appreciated as it deserves. Fantastic the aura and the vibe you have; it tastes like the good and old times when friends were truly friends and it was customary to share everything. Those who had a car would come pick you up even if they lived very far away just for the pleasure of sharing time dreams and chats. Bel Ami speaks of this of what will never return but was really important. It’s citrusy floral leather very complex and long-lasting on the skin despite having a normal but present sillage. It’s an adult fragrance that smells very good and is mainly suitable for autumn and winter when it wraps you up and makes you travel through time. A wonderful proposal to wear it with pride.
Finally tried this legendary perfume (in its current formula), and the opening left me speechless: super natural, bright citrus. Then the notes unfold, as described in other reviews. Among the classics I’ve tested, this is the most complex and accomplished. It sits in the same lane as Antaeus, Santos, or Aramis, far removed from today’s mainstream style. It’s unmistakably masculine and elegant. Some might find it dated, but to me, it feels timeless, just like true masterpieces. Interestingly, as it dries down, it smells like a subtle incense. I see it as perfect for someone of a certain age who wants to make a statement at work while lasting flawlessly all day. A very serious piece from Hermès… I’m truly impressed.
Finally I was able to try this mythical perfume (in its current formulation). The opening left me speechless with very natural and bright citrus notes. Then the other notes start to parade already very described in previous comments. Of the classics I’ve tried this seems the most complex and accomplished. It’s in the vein of Antaeus Santos or Aramis very far from the style of perfumes mostly consumed today. It stands out; it’s masculine and extremely elegant. There will be those who find it outdated but to me it seems timeless as is often the case with masterpieces. Curiously in the dry down I heard a discrete note of incense. I see it as perfect for someone of a certain age who wants to make a presence in a work environment considering that its longevity lasts a full day without problems. A very serious matter this work by Hermès… It has impressed me truthfully.
I had been looking for this fragrance for a long time and today I received it after seeing it in an online tester format at a very good price. I am amazed. It’s not a scent for young people but it radiates class elegance and formality. It’s a fresh and citrusy aroma that turns woody without losing the presence of vetiver carnation and bergamot on a vanilla base. Personally I don’t detect the leather at least the leather scent I’m used to in my collection. It smells like an 80s businessman arriving at his office freshly groomed ready for a workday including lunch in a provincial capital by the sea.
Before launching the perfume one must know that Bel Ami is a novel by Maupassant from 1885 about a former soldier who goes to Paris uses his beauty and youth to seduce intelligent women and climb the social ladder with boundless ambition without scruples living between appearances and desires. Hermès created the fragrance almost 100 years later. What to expect? A perfect move. It evokes the 80s the rising yuppie culture ambitious young people lovers of power and excesses offered by certain economies. They are natural seducers who take care of their beauty like 20-year-old boys but more relaxed without neglecting manners or details. They are high-school hedonists who live by image; today we see a resurgence of these gentlemen. Bel Ami encapsulates this idea perfectly: an aromatic profile with several nuances elegant and seductive a presence impossible to ignore. It combines past and present. It is the richness of leather at its maximum expression: an erotic stimulating leather that plays between the fine and the dirty. Like a man who dresses elegantly and moves with style in society but in the bedroom unleashes his beast without decorum. The first impression is the classic citrusy opening with bergamot and herbs but the leather emerges becoming more intense less delicate with touches of amber resin and a slightly spicy lily root. Vetiver and patchouli are orchestrated amazingly neither shining more than the other adding depth. Carnation accompanies the leather not the other way around. Although perfumes can have similar notes especially from the same decade it depends on the nose’s talent to combine them harmoniously choose how they interact and where to place the emphasis. With a house like Hermès (especially in the 60s 70s and 80s) access to high-quality ingredients catapults the work. ‘Le 3e Homme de Caron’ could be a close cousin but Bel Ami astutely avoids lavender separating it from many classics. It gives way to spices highlighting the leather note. It’s a leather influenced by a magnificent balance between citrus spicy nuances and the delicate sweetness of flowers without losing its aromatic leadership. My review is about a formula from the early 90s. Without a doubt a masterpiece.
I got the reformulated version after testing it in a store in Brussels; it was love at first sniff. To be honest I’d never heard of it before and I can’t comment on the version from 40 years ago but this EDT is undervalued. It’s a masculine fougère (very masculine) with a skin that without being invasive says: here you are facing a man not a child…
It’s not a fougère; it’s a leather chypre. There have been several times I’ve noticed this error of confusing or not differentiating the two families. Chypre and fougère families while sharing an era and some ingredients differ enormously from each other. They consist of two primordial ingredient combinations: Chypre: Bergamot Labdanum and Oakmoss. Fougère: Lavender Coumarin (a chemical compound from tonka bean that smells like dried herbs) and Moss. Similarly they have more distinguishable secondary nuances: Floral notes like rose jasmine and carnation are closer to the chypre family while the fougère family rarely uses these ingredients completely avoids rose and carnation (and almost always jasmine) and opts for geranium. Also worth mentioning is that there are perfumes that don’t belong to either family at first glance such as Lapidus Pour Homme and Oscar de la Renta Pour Lui. Representatives of both families: Chypres (Woody Leather etc.) Antaeus Polo Bel Ami Eau de Cologne Brava Eau Sauvage Aramis Gucci Pour Homme 1976 Creed Aventus etc. Fougères (Aromatic) Azzaro Drakkar Noir Paco Rabanne Pour Homme Lomani Pour Homme. I hope this helps. Blessings.
It’s not a fougère; it’s a chypre with leather; I’ve been confused several times. Although they share an era and some ingredients, the families are very different. Chypre blends bergamot, labdanum, and oakmoss; fougère uses lavender, coumarin (from tonka bean, smells like dried herbs), and moss. Their secondary nuances also differ: roses, jasmine, and carnations are typical of chypre, while fougère avoids rose and carnation, almost always jasmine, and prefers geranium. There are perfumes that don’t fit clearly into either, like Lapidus Pour Homme or Oscar de la Renta Pour Lui. Examples of chypres (woody, leather): Antaeus, Polo, Bel Ami, Agua Brava, Eau Sauvage, Aramis, Gucci PH 1976, Creed Aventus. Examples of fougères (aromatic): Azzaro, Drakkar Noir, Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, Lomani Pour Homme. Hope this helps. Blessings.
A masculine aromatic chypre and balsamic. It sparkles with spices herbal notes and a light leather. It portrays that classic masculine perfume without giving all the protagonism to wood but instead builds a much more diverse spiced and calming aroma. Although it doesn’t resemble it it achieves that comforting slightly traditional laundry detergent effect. It’s a concept similar to Chanel’s Antaeus being much lighter and more oxygenated without Chanel’s heaviness. It’s a historical Hermès masculine elegance that still works today for noses that enjoy slightly woody spiced and leather scents.
An aromatic and balsamic masculine chypre that sparkles with spices, herbal notes, and a light leather. It portrays that classic masculine vibe without letting wood take center stage, crafting a scent that’s more diverse, spiced, and calming. Although it doesn’t resemble it directly, it manages to evoke that comforting traditional laundry effect. It’s a concept similar to Chanel’s Antaeus, but much lighter and more oxygenated, lacking that heaviness. It’s the historical masculine elegance of Hermès that still works today for noses who enjoy slightly woody, spiced, and leathery aromas.
Greetings to all readers: What hasn’t been said about this great masterpiece? I won’t reiterate notes longevity etc. In my opinion this is the fragrance of a bank manager; it is that elegant.
Hello J.A.M. regarding your note on Bel Ami. I came to the site thinking of the person who recommended it to me and led me to buy a huge bottle of Bel Ami as a gift almost forty years ago. The curious thing is that he wasn’t a bank manager but an Italian banker and the father of a friend. That good man knew of my interest in perfumes and said I was wearing a very elegant… yet aggressive fragrance that projected a wrong image of my personality. It didn’t stop there; that same week we went to his perfumer to create the night and summer versions of the same scent (what we now call ‘flankers’) and the house supplied them to me for a very long time until I left Rome. He enrolled me in the world of niche perfumery and I remain faithful to it even though it’s difficult living in America in a charming city with a great climate but very very provincial. I try to travel to Europe once a year to stock up mainly on my perfumes. I bought a version from the 90s online about seven years ago very expensive since it was already half-empty but it was worth it to bring back to life the universe of memories it held just by smelling it. I continue to explore the always less imaginative world of perfumery hoping young people could glimpse what my generation knew before advertising and promotional videos reduced perfumery to what it is today: a meager cube containing only a maze of mirrors.