Oud Noir by Ted Lapidus

Arrived a couple of weeks ago and I’ve already tested it twice. At first, it hit me hard with those dark woods, saffron, and a fruity note that could be nutmeg. I bought it for the plum and leather blend, tired of the leather-raspberry combos that don’t work for me. Initially, I thought it was just okay, but when I reapplied it a week later, I was surprised: a dark, potent floral opening where jasmine rules the first five minutes, then evolves to remind me a lot of Maghateer by Nabeel—subtly sweet without being cloying. After ten minutes, it settles on the skin with that saffron-tinged, woody base and that underlying fruity touch that makes it stand out. I haven’t used it enough or know much about notes, but it’s interesting; I’ll save it for cool nights. For 21 euros, the proposal and quality are luxurious. I recommend it if you like dark perfumes; from my collection, only Maghateer comes close. They say it resembles Chopard’s Black Incense, but I own both and don’t see a notable similarity beyond the shared darkness; if I had to choose, I’d stick with Chopard. It’s my first review and first Lapidus. As for the animalic aspect, I don’t feel it that way; to me, that smells like actual animal body or environment, like some Prada or Laurent Mazzone Hard Leather, but here it doesn’t remind me of anything like that. Great value, pleasant aroma, and a strong opening: I recommend it.

ATTENTION! I highly recommend letting this perfume macerate. My girlfriend gifted me a bottle in 2021-2022. At first, it was very smoky, almost just leather and incense, with traces of plum only appearing after hours. It was animalic and almost hostile; I liked it but found it hard to wear, suitable only for going out at night or in the cold. I hadn’t used it for a long time, and a few weeks ago, I decided to spray a bit. What a surprise! The perfume changed completely. The strong notes softened, giving way to the rest that was previously struggling under the smoke and leather. Now I notice the saffron with a major role in the opening, the sweet notes of plum and praline, etc. A huge and very welcome change. A pity it seems discontinued, as it makes me want to buy another bottle.

I don’t detect any sweet notes at all; this perfume is dry and rough, like fine-grit sandpaper finishing a job. It’s very good and original, like few others. It doesn’t smell like smoke or incense, but rather like charcoal, and it’s very pleasant—no fear there. It’s refreshing to find things that break from the usual mold; it does so markedly here. Perfumers cared little for commercial success; the house has great personality. But it feels like something happened in the lab before the formula was finalized, and the perfumers had to flee without giving it the finishing touch. It feels like a sketch of the perfume it should have been, like a suit pattern that wasn’t fully sewn. It’s very particular, seems unfinished, maybe deliberately “minimalist,” which is why it seems to have only one indeterminate, very basic note. That’s probably where the real work lies; if it has all the announced notes, they’re perfectly blended because the sensation is very solid. It smells like charcoal or sun-dried wood. I like it a lot, though it leaves me a bit confused. In short, there’s great perfumery work here worth discovering.

A very difficult fragrance from the very first minute. First, it’s hard to determine the notes; it’s almost useless to try. The leather is evident, along with smoky wood (which brings us close to Oud) and a non-too-eclesiastical incense, all accompanied by a blend that tries to lean oriental but doesn’t quite succeed… and I like that. Second, it’s hard to find the right moment. Between the excellent longevity and the projection that can be dangerous to the surroundings and oneself, Oud Noir deserves reflection before deciding when to wear it. My recommendation: if you care about compliments, your partner’s tastes, or friends’ opinions, wear it only for personal enjoyment. If you don’t care, great, wear it however you want, though it’s not bad to be considerate in hospital settings. If possible, test before buying, although that can also be difficult. Third, Fragrantica classifies it as unisex, and while I’ve seen ladies who found it interesting, academically I haven’t known a single woman who uses it. There are surely many, but I haven’t seen it as the norm. The quality-price ratio is very good. As said, recommend testing and getting to know it; buying it is very personal. I liked it and already have it at home.

Oud Noir lives up to its name: smoke, leather, and oud. The masses ignore this gem while obsessing over expensive brands like Tom Ford or Initio, paying caviar prices for weird and hard-to-wear things. It smells like the Ted Lapidus house: hard, smoky, with resins and synthetic oud (no manure smell). Trying to separate notes is nonsense; it’s just black smoke on full blast. For tough guys, collectors, or people seeking rarities. It’s a dark hardcore perfume, no versatility and no prisoners. It lasts as long as the smell of a mechanic’s garage; you’ll need a shower with floral gel to get rid of it. It reminds me of a mix of Tuscan Leather, Gucci Guilty Absolute, Fahrenheit, Interlude, and Jacomo. Die, little bird. Even Ted Lapidus’s Black Extreme is more versatile than this. The good thing is that if you find it online, it usually comes for 20 euros. In the difficult perfume category, it’s one of the best in terms of quality-price. Zero snobbery.

A very distinct oud proposal, with a mineral touch as if you were near a coal fireplace. The leather is old and dirty, alternating with incense. For its price, I recommend buying blind. Longevity of 6 to 8 hours.