Furyo by Jacques Bogart

It’s the Kouros sibling: same silver back but a completely different character. Unless you know them well or try them side by side, you’ll struggle to tell them apart… The opening is nearly identical, but here, animalic notes and tobacco emerge quickly, maintaining a complex base that evokes Kouros, though this one takes a less rough, more soapy path… swapping roles without losing their own way. Furyo becomes darker, not piercing, but with that own authoritative character that never abandons its animal and rebellious essence, even if it seems tamed… but it isn’t! Regarding performance, my 2017 batch seems to have the same longevity I remember from the 90s when I first used it… I’m not one to judge if it lasts an hour more or less; a jewel like this… lasts what it must last.

Where all the sins meet. What a peculiar creation; it’s one of those fragrances that gives you a real challenge. Those moments in perfumery where all the power is handed to the nose: with a bottle, a name, and a scent that can’t go unnoticed. It feels like House Bogart intervened to fulfill a whim, regardless of what the public thinks. They surely wanted to innovate; no wonder they hired a young Thierry Wasser to join the team, and together with Ron Winnegrad (creator of the legendary unisex Lagerfeld Classic), they gave us this polyamorous beauty. I’ll call him ‘the boy with a bad reputation’; he really doesn’t respect the olfactive pyramid of the 80s much; in fact, I don’t think even Kouros dared to go that far. While it’s more moderate than the so-called White Beast, it’s still more rebellious than him. This multidimensional flash from Bogart (very 80s futuristic movie) opens with an ambered, animalic note that will leave more than one nose bewildered. In its evolution, there’s a soft cilantro, a tiny, almost infinitesimal portion of lavender, and delicate green notes. But what stands out is its completely floral heart: a boozy carnation, dirty enough to repel those who don’t understand it, but creamy and intriguing enough to trap those who succumb to its mystery. Moderate projection; I don’t feel it’s beastly; its scent is so particular it doesn’t need to project so much. If it projects a lot, it clings to the skin without letting go easily and lasts a very long time. Over time, the dusted tobacco vanilla becomes more perceptible, playing with the floral (carnation, jasmine) musky rest. What richness… I love it; it’s pure lust, but I understand it’s not for everyone.

The only truly animal fragrance I own; I enjoy it very much because it surpasses Quorum by far. What a pity that new generations don’t appreciate these perfumes that carry a container of aromas together: talcated, animalic, you can feel the fig leaf, that musk with the creaminess of amber, delicious and long-lasting. The only vintage discontinued bottle I have, and I’ll enjoy it because life is delicious.

The Kouros sibling, same silver back but with another personality. Unless you know them well and don’t put them side by side, you’ll hardly distinguish them… The opening is almost the same, but in this one, animalic aromas and tobacco emerge quickly, keeping the complex base but bringing to mind the personality of Kouros, which takes a less rough and more soapy path… to swap roles, without losing their own way. Furyo becomes darker, not piercing, but with that own authoritative character that never abandons its animalic and rebellious personality, even if it seems tamed… but it isn’t!!! Regarding its performance, in this case my Furyo batch is from 2017, and I don’t know if there are later ones, but this one seems to me to have the same performance I remember from the 90s, when I bought and used it for the first time… I’m not one to judge quality, because whether it lasts an hour more or less, a jewel like this… lasts what it must last…