Vetyver by Roger & Gallet

Citrus opening, refreshing and invigorating, like a juice of lemon, bergamot, and orange with rosemary and freshly grated nutmeg. Soon, a green and aromatic vetiver appears, followed by clove and a soft moss with a sweet touch of tonka and benzoin. It has good longevity (over 4 hours) and a discreet projection, ideal for feeling fresh without being overwhelming. I’m reviewing a bottle from the late 90s; I don’t know how the current one is. PS: The label says there’s nutmeg and benzoin, even though they aren’t on the official list.

This cologne won’t satisfy vetiver purists since the note is very timid here, but it has an adolescent and cheeky charm that’s irresistible. It’s cheerful, fun, and a saturated turquoise green, far from classic formality. Although the opening is more herbaceous than citrus, it’s delicious and timeless. To me, as a pre-teen, it smelled like mint, tarragon, and vanilla. It smells like a teenage boy and doesn’t last long, but over-applied, it’s perfect for a quick beer at home. Unfortunately, it’s discontinued. 10/10.

At first, the citrus notes are a bit soapy with an herbal base of rosemary and lavender. In the dry down, you perceive fir, vetiver (which curiously isn’t on the list), soft tonka, and cedar. The finish is abrupt with tonka and musk. It’s a very soft, natural chypre like L’Occitane, but with poor longevity and projection. The vetiver is green and discreet; it lasted about 6 hours and maybe 8 with effort, but the trail is weak. More suitable for spring and daytime use.

No one knows why in ’98 my grandmother gave this to my mother, and she hated it; I saved it from the vanity because, even though it was a hyper-spiced mess according to my pink magazines of the time, it didn’t smell bad in the bottle. Turns out it’s a men’s perfume, and my grandmother was wrong to give it to my mother instead of my dad, who adored it compared to the Van Cleef abominations that made everyone gag. It’s just tastes, but what a family drama.

I grabbed it blindly for two dollars in an old bottle, and wow, I’ve loved it. While other ’90s perfumes seem to have aged poorly, this is an imprecise and cheerful piece of art. It smells like a fresh version of that Massimo Dutti cologne, but calmer with tender citrus notes. It’s a gentle, relaxed, and masculine water that smells like 1992 summers, siestas, and that adult cologne smell you secretly wore. PS: The trail is weak, as expected.