Lui by Guerlain

Rich smoky vanilla with carnation notes. It reminds me of something, but I can’t recall what… so frustrating when that happens. Must test on skin for the perfume to unfold all its nuances; on paper, it’s nothing like it.

I really like it. It’s a very original, high-quality perfume. I’d read reviews calling LUI an unmatched jewel, so I grabbed a decant. The first thing I noticed was that it smelled like a dentist’s office. Isn’t that what people say about BR 540? It’s not because it resembles Baccarat, but the comparison always seemed odd to me; now I get why some mention that ‘dentist smell’—I sense it here too. The opening is floral, sweet, and smoky. It smells of cloves, yes. Soft benzoin, smoke, and vanilla. It’s a very particular scent I haven’t felt in other perfumes. I detect leather, though not too strong; in any case, it adds clarity to LUI. It’s a very unisex fragrance that doesn’t try to lean one way or the other but wants to express an idea. This is the perfume of a sexy dentist, I imagine. The kind of dentist/Instagram model who makes TikTok videos dancing and telling you floss is important. Something ridiculously carefree. It smells like toothpaste, but not minty—more ‘spiced’. The clove is very prominent and feels real, just like the slightly dusty, herbal profile of the carnation. It’s clean, like a barbershop. It smells like a bespoke tailor’s suit. It smells like caramel, hot ‘peau’, Guerlinade. It’s a very special perfume that shares nothing with what I usually like, but I appreciate its aromatic profile quite a bit. Another thing about LUI is that on skin, it doesn’t project much. It’s one of those scents that lives close to the skin, more for personal enjoyment. It also doesn’t have great longevity, which is a pity. I recommend sampling before buying. Plus, new bottles are hard to find (and the ones floating around are pricey), so better to sample; even though it’s rich, it’s not for everyone.

PERFUMAZOOOO!!! The sensation and gratification of smelling it are indescribable; from the first spray to the dry-down, it’s a total blast. Unmatched quality, with an amazing naturalness. Its aroma perfectly replicates opening a vanilla bean pod and rubbing the inner paste between your fingertips—that’s exactly what this perfume smells like. Maybe unisex, I wear it rarely, but I definitely see it leaning feminine. When my wife wears it, it’s pure bliss, a scent you can’t get enough of if you’re into vanilla. Here is a true niche jewel crafted by Guerlain, with beautiful presentation and packaging, ideal for gifting. Excellent longevity, performance, and great value for what you get. A 100% natural, great aroma; I’d dare say it’s one of the most realistic vanillas on the market, alongside Diptyque’s ‘Eau Duelle’. In conclusion, highly recommended: own it, and above all, enjoy it.

I just think Lui is expensive given its longevity. On my skin it lasts 8 hours and still smells of vanilla, high quality, sure, but it didn’t surprise me. The development is flat, not negative but not impressive; I expected more. The marketing as unisex makes you think it’s innovative at first use, but it’s not. Woody notes, leather, and smoke are felt from the start, with vanilla in the background persisting until the end, reminiscent of a new-generation Guerlain, quality far from the Homme and Idéal for new generations (vade retro). You have to give Lui time; at first I thought it was light like an EDT or Eau Imperiale, what a scare! As it dries down it starts to act and seems its journey goes from less to more. That’s when it surprises. It’s dry with light gourmand touches that please. It’s hard to judge if it’s feminine or masculine; Guerlain has shown there are no limits, read Jicky or Vol de Nuit. I think the brand wants a genderless fragrance, like in Habit Rouge. Vanilla? For men or women. Recommend testing before buying, I know it will be a hit, especially with men. I like it but I think it will become one of those Guerlains that appear and then get discontinued. The presentation is a 10, box with leather imitation and embossed logo, feeling of exclusivity. The bottle isn’t new, its ‘grandfather’ Liu already made history with Baccarat Art Deco cut glass. Guerlain has successfully attracted the niche audience. Recommend testing before purchasing, I know it will please many, especially men. I like it but I believe it will become one of those Guerlains that appear and then suddenly get discontinued.

I just think LUI is pricey for its longevity. On my skin, it lasts 8 hours and still smells of vanilla—quality stuff, but it didn’t surprise me. Its development is flat; not negative, just not impressive. I expected more. The marketing as unisex makes you think you’ll smell something innovative right away, but that’s not the case. The woody, leather, and smoky notes are there from the start. In the dry-down, the vanilla persists until the end, reminiscent of a new-wave Guerlain, far superior in quality to the Homme and Idéal lines for younger generations. LUI needs time; at first, I thought it was light like an EDT or Eau Imperiale—what a shock! Once it dries, it starts to shine, and its journey seems to go from less to more. That’s when it surprises. It’s a dry scent with very light gourmand touches that make it likable. It’s hard to say if it’s feminine or masculine; Guerlain has shown there are no limits—think Jicky or Vol de Nuit. I think the brand aims, as at the start, for a genderless fragrance. Vanilla? For men or women, like in Habit Rouge. LUI is recommended; its only downside is the price for 50 ml. The presentation is a 10: box with faux leather and embossed branding, giving a sense of exclusivity. The bottle design isn’t new; its ‘grandfather’ Liu already made waves with his Baccarat Art Déco cut crystal. In this sense, Guerlain has successfully attracted those who love exclusivity and niche. I recommend sampling before buying, though I know many will love it, especially men. I like it, but I think it’ll become one of those Guerlain gems that appear and then get discontinued… don’t ask me why.