Knowing by Estée Lauder

It’s a total showstopper, an unforgettable fragrance that made me repurchase it after years. Now I notice more spice and amber, and it definitely stands out.

One of Lauder’s greatest treasures: exquisite, rare, unique, and enigmatic. You either fall in love or hate it at first sniff; it’s a pure explosion of sensations. It’s still wonderful, though it’s not quite the same as before. Luckily, this masterpiece has nothing of those sugary, jammy notes; it’s made for people with strong personalities, far from what social media and advertising push today.

An 80s fragrance with an old-school designer touch, now within reach of any wallet, for power women and also for postmodern men of the fourth sex. It’s a Cypriot floral that leaves an aldehydic mark like Chanel No. 5; it passes through wherever it goes and lasts longer than a day without bread. Someone said it smells like a rich lady, and it’s not a bad analogy. Naturally, it’s not for silly little girls, CH sneaker fans, or anyone under 35-40. Performance and projection are old-school: minimum 10 hours, it leaves a trail for 30 minutes, and it lingers on clothes forever until you throw it away. It’s worth much less than any current junk and is 100,000 times better than 95% of today’s designer perfumes. Perfume bomb. Equivalent for serious mature guys to Guerlain’s Heritage: La Resistance.

I LOVE IT! I’m gradually getting into 80s fragrances. Does it give me a vibe like Hermes’ 24 Faubourg? Maybe. I tried it on my wrist and was initially shocked, but the dry-down is super beautiful; it smells better as the hours pass. It’s warm yet striking at the same time, sensual for a woman, perfect for an autumn-winter dinner with a breeze. It lasts a long time, and I feel the scent doesn’t fade even when I rub it. I had to buy it because I loved it; I’m over the comments that it ‘smells like an old lady’—those people don’t know about perfumes. I don’t know if it was reformulated, but I feel it’s always smelled this way. It smells like a wealthy woman, yes.

A surprise. I didn’t know about it, and thanks to a friend I got to try it. I was surprised by the fragrance itself and that it’s still available, which speaks volumes about it. I must say that when it launched, it probably smelled different, as some components have been cut due to restrictions. Still, it’s powerful from the very first moment. It has a very distinct character, which I appreciate. It has that aldehyde opening that reminds me of Chanel No. 5, meaning the ones that give cleanliness and clarity to floral notes. In all its complexity, you can perceive a earthy, rough patchouli, which I like a lot; it’s a fragrance with a solid body, far from absurd banalities and pastel colors. I can’t imagine a frequent user is someone who is an avid player in the game of appearances; I have in mind a ‘lady’ (not by age, but by attitude, confidence, elegance, and firmness) who has more important things to do. It’s just a perspective; maybe there’s someone who doesn’t fit my imagination and enjoys this fragrance. In any case, the development is rich in nuances but hard for me to identify, and perhaps that’s better because the result is what makes Knowing so attractive to me. I must say it’s not for sensitive noses or users accustomed to excess, as it can be very uncomfortable for the person and their surroundings. I also don’t see it as a summer or spring product. I imagine the healthy approach is to get close to it with an open mind, in cold seasons, and on several occasions, even if just to know something different from the current trend.

If I had to define this perfume with one word, it would be: elegant. It’s a strong scent without being cloying, dry, woody; for me, it’s more for night and for day if you’re in cold weather. I love it, it has great sillage and excellent longevity.

While Beautiful is the dreamy sister in a white gown, Knowing is the black sheep: individualistic, sharp-tongued, and intriguingly androgynous. It features a black tuxedo, voluminous hair, and delicate bracelets. It pairs well with heavy hitters like Paloma Picasso or Coco Chanel. It opens with a dark, poisonous rose—a deep, green floral chypre. It plays with masculine notes like cardamom and laurel, adding earthy, natural patchouli and moss. There’s a spicy side of cilantro and lily, but its sweet aura of honey and plum softens it. The dry down is oriental, with woods, ambered spices, and an animalic base that makes you surrender. It’s colossal, intoxicating, and not for everyone. The new amber-brown formula is only 50% of the original due to restrictions, yet it remains more interesting than many current launches. Simply beautiful perfume!

I wanted to try it because many reviews describe it as mossy. In reality, it’s a complex scent, a powerful and mature vintage in the style of Paloma Picasso. It brings to mind a woman in a sharply padded blazer suit, 80s style. It opens with intense aldehydes, like Chanel No. 5. Then come the mimosa and cardamomo; it recreates the yellow color and cloudy texture of the flower. At the end, I notice a very powdery rose, a bit dark due to the laurel and softened with sandalwood. Unfortunately, I didn’t find the moss, cedar, or vetiver that would give that damp earth tone I was looking for. In my opinion, it’s not an easy perfume nor one that accommodates all skin types. Potent projection for the first hour, then it softens. Longevity is 8-10 hours.

I tried Knowing because reviews described it as mossy. In reality, it’s a complex, vintage, mature aroma in the style of Paloma Picasso. It brings to mind a woman in a 80s tailored suit. It opens with intense aldehydes like Chanel No. 5, followed by mimosa and cardamom that recreate the yellow hue and texture of the flower. In the end, a powdery rose, darkened by laurel and softened with sandalwood. I didn’t find the moss, cedar, or vetiver for the earthy tone I was looking for. It’s not an easy perfume for all skin types. The trail is incredibly potent for the first hour, then softens. Longevity is 8 to 10 hours.

Divine, but so narcotic and potent that it’s not for hot climates; it would be unbearable. It’s for cold or autumnal weather. It’s majestic, haughty, and for those who know how to carry it with confidence. Extremely elegant, lordly, and impossible to miss. Lauder perfumes are unforgettable, and this one is sharp and full of beastly strength. A delicious, radiactively sensual bomb. Very similar to Balenciaga’s Rumba and a bit like Ungaro’s Diva.

Suffocating.

Another baroque gem from Estée Lauder that adds to its distinctive necklace of fragrances. Refined, elegant, dry, and perfect, though it turns a bit sour after half an hour, then softens. Along with others from that previous era like Cinnabar or Youth Dew, it’s becoming harder to find them. This perfume gets a 10, and it’s not ‘for ladies’; it’s for a precious Woman or Man who keeps their perfume like a treasure. It smells like respect for perfumery.

An arid, dry, woody, resinous, spicy, penetrating, warm, and voluptuous fragrance. Possessing a majestic elegance that stands out everywhere. One could say it’s Knowing who chooses its wearer, as it almost has its own personality, but when the chemistry is perfect, it’s eternal love. It needs to be admired and complemented with the luxury of the night. It’s inevitable to think of women in black tuxedos, empowered and in charge of themselves. A gem from the late 80s, contemporary with Paloma Picasso and others of the era. Knowing continues to shine like a majestic, energetic star, faithful to itself.

If applied correctly, it leaves an incredible trail that envelops you. It’s super elegant and lasts a long time. Ideally suited for winter or going out at night.

My mom’s idol… it’s winter! Very ladylike. When it first came out, it surely had rivals like L’Art or P. Picasso.