First by Van Cleef & Arpels

Eau de Toilette Review: First is a sophisticated, elegant, and pristine beauty. It opens with a huge bouquet of white flowers, jasmine, and tender lilies, with the stem and sun highlighting the scent. The aldehydes are well-crafted and give it an airy feel; as it dries down, it becomes clean, musky, and slightly green. It smells like a real perfume, like a vase of flowers in a shady corner. I’d wear it on sunny days, especially in spring and autumn with sunshine. It doesn’t smell like anything similar, not like No. 5 or Arpège; it’s unmatched. It has good projection, lasts long on clothes, and the first day I wore it, I received many compliments. Duration: over 11-12 hours… unfortunately, it was discontinued two weeks ago, but you can still find it.

What a beautiful perfume and memories… Upon smelling it, the mental image is black velvet elegance with perfect cuts that frame the female figure. It’s pristine and undoubtedly a lady’s perfume, but not by gender, rather by a woman with sophistication in her DNA, a Hollywood diva of the past. You can tell it comes from the past; it was very popular in the 90s when my mother had it, and I, at 14, sometimes wore it because I’ve always liked clean, powdery florals. It’s a scent that calms and makes you sigh. The aldehydes are well-presented along with various flowers and animalic amber (unfortunately), very Chanel No. 5 style. Something I remember is that it wasn’t very long-lasting on me, but it made me want to have it again or at least feel its aroma, close my eyes, and travel back in time to my childhood…

Since I was a child, fragrances, their trails, and their intensities caught my attention. My family couldn’t afford to buy perfume, so I satisfied my interest by collecting empty perfume bottles that were given to me. I don’t remember how this First ended up in my hands, but it was my favorite. The bottle was beautiful, I loved the cap, but mostly I loved the fragrance. I attributed a personality to every bottle in my collection, and First was a mature, sophisticated, and elegant woman. Does anyone know if First is still available? I would love to smell this scent again.

Jean-Claude Ellena’s admirers usually divide between those who marvel at his current creations (aquatic, transparent, light) and those who believe his peak was in the 70s, when he composed more substantial, dirty, and prominent fragrances like Eau de Campagne for Sisley and First for Van Cleef & Arpels. Personally, I prefer his strong, fleshy creations with a touch of dirt that adds sensuality and balance, rather than the newer, warmer proposals. The vintage version of First is simply amazing. You can smell the entire floral symphony with a 3D movie effect. But that’s not even the best part. The dry-down is where it reveals its total beauty: soft, powdery sandalwood that appears after a long journey, aldehydes with a resplendent shine, overlaid with warm amber, earthy vetiver, and a delicate musk, plus go-go civet. This fragrance looks elegant and classy, but it wasn’t created only for high-society ladies and is used on many occasions, even all seasons. It’s fresh and warm at the same time, floral and woody, innocent and mischievous, bright and dark. It always has the power to draw attention because not everyone dares to dress in such a vintage style. A word about the current version: it holds up quite well in trail and longevity (try it on the subway, train, or car with windows closed): the current version has lost the balance and the arrogant density of the old one. The aldehydes are translucent. It improves as it dries, but the lack of real sandalwood and muted flowers are noticeable. It’s not bad and seems ideal for women who want to approach a classic without running away, but I consider it a 2D image of a sculpture admired in person.

I love it. I remember the old bottle that had a kind of interwoven gold/bronze casing, a marvel.

I loved it! I tried it at the perfumerie and fell in love. It smells like talc, super personal and exquisite. The average longevity is about 5 hours.

My mom used to wear it and I loved it. The bottle is a jewel, like a pendant. It has a lot of presence and personality; it’s elegant and sophisticated, not really for young people. I wouldn’t wear it in summer, but yes for a special event.

First: the dirtiest of the soapy ones. Even though it’s compared to No. 5, here the aldehydic talc is much ‘dirtier’ without losing its essence. It’s a 70s treasure: rich, humid, luxurious, and evocative of the city and work. It’s a perfect blend of country and city for clean, professional women. It smells like the hustle of a Monday in a past city. It has a delicious woody-mossy background and a fecal tone from the civet and narcissus that blends perfectly with the aldehydes and flowers. It’s spot-on and a masterpiece with an amazing narcotic touch.

First has a lot of charm and soapy floral elegance. On my skin, it features a softened hyacinth accented by a fresh, springtime rose, like petals dampened by morning dew. It never had great longevity or sillage, with moderate projection, but it shines for the quality of its ingredients. It’s not for mature women; a young woman can wear it without issue. It’s daytime, ideal for executives in charge, leaving a soft trail in offices. It has a great memory effect. It’s not sensual or for night, but rather for morning and personal enjoyment. A true survivor. Abstain if you love sweet gourmands. Great work by J.C. Ellena.

First Van Cleef & Arpels exudes class, elegance, and glamour, very much in the style of Chanel No. 5, though I think it has a slightly more herbal touch. It smells like a beautiful bouquet of flowers touched by the sun, fragrant. If the powdery narcissus in the bouquet stands out, it has a slight fruity touch, and here the moss is very noticeable. In the background comes that delicious aroma of sandalwood, tonka bean, vanilla, amber, and musk; the civet isn’t distinct, so I can’t say if it’s a standout note as many claim, but I’m captivated. I love aldehyde fragrances for that soapy, clean touch, but First goes much further: it’s complex, opulent, and overwhelmingly elegant. Its longevity is about 8 hours, moderate sillage. I met it through a decant and already have it on my wishlist. For those of us who love classic aromas, you can’t miss First.

First is a classic, mature, and formal feminine creation. Olfactorily, it’s very aldehydic and floral. It can be overwhelming at first, but it gradually tames itself. It’s like those intimidating-looking ladies who turn out to be friendly when you talk to them; it’s not for everyone, but perfect for those who grew up with old-school fragrances. It’s a dense, penetrating aromatic potion, with a floral blend of rose, neroli, and carnation, bolstered by tonka bean, amber, honey, and musk. A touch of animalic notes adds fierceness, giving it a physiological background. Van Cleef always delivers quality. Young girls should abstain. Fragrance: 8.5/10, Longevity: 9.5/10, Projection: 9/10, Versatility: 5/10.

First is one of my favorite perfumes. Very ‘Parisian.’ I was gifted it about 20 years ago and fell in love at first sight. I own several bottles and always keep one in my closet. I wear it in autumn and winter, at night and in the evening. On gray, cold days, I can wear it all day: it comforts me. I’m not an expert on ingredients, but I’d define it as: ‘consistent yet subtle, mysterious, and elegant.’ If it were a landscape, it’d be an oasis in the desert; if it were a color, gold; if it were a dance, a waltz; if it were a celestial body, the sun. It projects beautifully and lasts a long time. Cheers.

I’ve read around that it’s rated as old-fashioned, for older women, smelling like a grandma… Which goddess is the grandma if First smells like this? It’s an extraordinary classic that deserves respect without meaning it’s out of style. If we compare it to what’s trendy today (synthetic sweet and fruity scents, all the same), it makes no sense; you only compare it to the greats of perfumery that endure over time, since today’s trends rarely last a few years, let alone decades like First. To wear it, you need personality, because it won’t go unnoticed. You could compare it to the No. 5 Eau de Parfum, but First is much more audacious and noticeable. I like both, but I wear First better, yes, even though I’m a man. Wearing a suit, it looks sumptuous, and more than one person has praised me and asked what I was wearing. Van Cleef has a few timeless jewels, and this is one of them.

A fragrance luxury: jasmine, rose, and the spice of blackcurrant… and a touch of vetiver that makes it wonderful. Despite its age, it’s a young perfume with a soapy touch. We young people shouldn’t have prejudices when trying aged perfumes; we should be bolder and risk trying little-publicized scents for us. They tell us how to dress, what to eat, how to have fun… do they also have to tell us which perfume is suitable for 20 or for 60? I like to change fragrances based on my mood or my volatile appetites. There are no premises or limits to the sense of smell. I can listen to Bach or Coldplay; I can smell like Shalimar (from the 1920s) or the groundbreaking Juliette Has a Gun…

I love this fragrance; it’s very refined, ideal for a night party… extremely delicate. Although it has many years, it hasn’t gone out of style.