Nº 11 by ROSETO 1927

Fragrantica doesn’t list the name after the number like the house’s website does: ‘Sbagliato,’ which means ‘mistaken’ in Spanish. Also, the pyramid changes: according to the company, No. 11 has no oud; its opening is leather. Years ago, I bought a bottle of Cuero Roseto at a neighborhood perfumerie liquidating stock; the owner had passed away, and the daughter was running it because she wanted to rent out the space. For reasons I don’t know, her father hadn’t restocked in years, so the place felt more like a museum than a shop. I heard one or two months ago that the house is still operating thanks to their Instagram account. I checked their website and paid close attention to Sbagliato/No. 11 based on the top and base notes: leather and tobacco. I had in mind the leather scent I bought years ago, something along the lines of Cabochard, Aramis Bandit, or Knize 10, but softened by floral undertones. I also expected the tobacco leaves to add a sharp accent. My first impression after applying it was that either the chemist behind the current formula reproduced the original (and my bottle was expired) or used it as a base for their present version. What followed was surprising: it opened with aldehydic and gourmand notes; I didn’t clearly identify the leather like in the others mentioned, which confused me because the context felt more floral. The later evolution was complex; there, the leather did play a relevant role, but always within powdery notes. The blend feels soft, perhaps too soft and delicate for its discretion. It’s not a bomb, so those looking for projection and longevity will be disappointed; however, the complexity compensates for that. I don’t have technical knowledge to claim its quality is extraordinary, but to the nose, it feels distinguished by its composition and complexity. Who would wear this? I think it could be the ‘signature perfume’ for a woman under 40 with a certain preference for the classics without dating herself. You should avoid buying blind because it’s very different from what I’ve smelled so far; if you want to satisfy your curiosity, the company offers samples of all their fragrances. In terms of price, they’re accessible: around $60 USD with the official exchange rate, or about $40 USD with the parallel rate for 100 ml bottles.

Del vamos is strange; it brought me memories of Poker Face by Ted Lapidus. It has a very marked iris that gives it a clean, soapy, powdery vibe. That resemblance to PF leads me to La Nuit de l’Homme, obviously keeping only the sweet part without the citrus or fresh notes that give it cardamom or bergamot. As it dries, it becomes much heavier and less fresh, but without great projection; perhaps a floral note emerges in the mid-stage, leaning towards lavender. I couldn’t say, at least based on my nose, that it’s an oud. It’s not something that drives me crazy; I feel, as I said at the beginning, that it’s strange, but I can’t say I don’t like it because within that strangeness lies something that catches my attention.