Maai by Bogue

With high expectations after the MEM show and Gardoni’s style, Maai has disappointed me. While the civet and castoreum notes fulfill their animal promise, I expected more floral brightness, especially a narcissus that would shine during the dry-down. The scent ends up dominated by the smoky castoreum and waxy civet, resulting in a flat and boring experience compared to other chypres like Mandodari by Prin, which are more luminous with a more distinct dry-down. I acknowledge it’s well-constructed and manages those notes without being unpleasant, but ultimately it feels forgettable; undoubtedly, the masterpiece remains MEM.

Brutal perfume if you like animal scents. Very linear, with balanced aldehydes at the beginning that make the civet (very present) sparkle and feel fresh. In the middle, the tuberose tries to fight the civet to stand out. At the end, only civet remains, and more civet, with soft resinous touches. It’s an ode to civet: if you can’t stand it, run. It’s a fragrance that makes a statement, mature, nocturnal, and for cold weather. Indoors, it slowly dominates the room, drowning out other scents. It requires a lot of personality; wearing it makes you sound like Traviata. Everyone will look at you wondering if Louis XVI has returned with his head on.

I love Maai. I’m not a fan of such animal-heavy perfumes, but here the civet, despite its weight, blends so well that it never becomes unpleasant. In fact, its performance is equal to or better than other animal scents I’ve tried, like Diaghilev by Roja or Mandorari by Prin, which I remember vividly. The aldehydes give it a shine, a smoky and airy touch that helps project more and prevents the civet and resins from sticking to the skin as often happens. I’m not sure if I’d buy it because I don’t know if I see myself wearing this scent often, but I don’t rule it out, which is already a lot for a perfume like this. My favorite from the brand remains Douleur, because, although it’s the rarest and most difficult of all, it’s the one that reminds me the least of anything I’ve tried before. Bogue is a brand highly recommended. For those who like floral-resinous scents with strong civet and aldehyde notes, Maai is a great option! Scent: 8 Longevity: 9 Sillage: 8 Value for money: 6 Versatility: 6 Originality: 8 Global: 8.5

Bogue was a discovery for me last year; since I was given a sample in an exchange, I became a fan of the brand. Maai is floral, but not the typical floral: the rose that stands out has a citrus base, even though it doesn’t contain citrus, it’s something floral that gives me that sensation. It’s not a standard floral; it’s unique, with a resinous base and a super addictive animal touch. For me, it’s a must-have, just like MEM or O/E from the house. A hug, Gardoni.