8 88 by Comme des Garcons

I own three Rei Kawakubo fragrances from the house, along with several pieces of clothing, and I recognize that this one is the most complex. All three have humor, life, and personality; they are perfumes that accompany you, not ones you wear like designer scents. The first thing I notice is cilantro, but not the kind from food: it seems treated with hydrated cotton, tested in a lab, and cared for under cold light. Then comes Egyptian papyrus, a combination so rare it’s hard to understand. When it settles, it’s chameleon-like, shifting with your mood, like seeing Banksy as a child: interesting, you recognize it’s art, but you don’t quite get the message, which makes it unique. In the end, the amber notes caress the patchouli as if giving it little cuddles. I took three days to write this because I’ve smelled three different perfumes in this same bottle; I feel incapable of explaining this work of art. As my girlfriend said: ‘They’re not for a certain type of person; they’re for personal enjoyment, not to please.’ It reminds me of ‘Never Let Go’ by Fight Bite: beautiful, incomprehensible, and full of emotion.

You have to see how things change depending on various factors. Yesterday I tried this 888 (I’ve had it for years but rarely use it), and although the base with its church hall reminiscences persisted, it wasn’t sweet or aseptic like the first time. What I felt was a balsamic, liquorish rose splendoring like a saffron-spiced devil, almost effervescent, with very evident orange and amber tones. It has an expectorant aftertaste, even camphorated, which reminded me of Narciso Roto or Alaia—those games of crushed flowers with suede touches. I left it with my sister, and she went absolutely crazy with joy; she loved it. She wears Coco Mademoiselle, Alien, and Aromatics, so this balsamic floral with a camphorated twist was exactly what she enjoyed.

At first, it smells like penicillin mixed with Vicks VaporRub—unpleasant and artificial. But after ten minutes, it settles, revealing a subtle, cold, spicy cleanliness with a slight gourmand touch that isn’t cloying. The base stands out as expectorant, balsamic, and mentholated. It’s like a Tic-Tac mint caramel: sweet and spicy yet soft, creamy, and not sticky. I was surprised by this Comme des Garçons 8 88; it’s very wearable and pleasant. I wouldn’t wear it myself, but it’s amusing how strange it is to categorize. Do you know the taste of low-calorie candies? That’s what I feel with the 8 88: a cold, light, lab-made balsamic sweet with medicinal afternotes. It doesn’t have rose, yet I can’t stop making the association of a creamy, Martian rose. I thought of Gres’s Cabaret without any real connection; something tells me they’re related. It’s a pleasant surprise that makes me think of 1999 or 2001, not 2008. The bottle isn’t well-crafted; the gold and red combination is chaotic and dirty, leading to mistakes and failing to do justice to the warm, inoffensive fragrance inside. It would have won much more with Comme des Garçons’ signature polished stone in an almost-white green tone, like hospital or school furniture. That’s what it reminds me of. A very pleasant surprise.