Vivre by Molyneux

Molyneux held his own alongside Chanel and Patou; they were contemporaries and got along famously. The house boasts an extensive repertoire: Vivre first launched in the 30s and made a comeback in the 70s. Of course, they tweaked the olfactory pyramid to fit the era’s tastes. The designer was 80, and while he’d retired years prior due to eye issues, the brand still carried immense prestige. This revival was pure glamour, featuring a stunning bottle, exotic notes, and an official presentation gifted to the Empress of Iran at one of her charity galas. Vivre means ‘Live’—it’s an exclamation for life itself. The opening is one of the most ostentatious aldehyde blasts I’ve ever experienced. It’s an effervescent, sweet, and slightly spicy explosion with incredible intensity, carrying green notes, bergamot, and orange. Then comes the iris flower blended with orange blossom and hyacinth; the lily of the valley is also quite suggestive. But the real star is the base, which sets it apart from the classic green aldehydes of the time. Doses of myrrh, sandalwood, and spices play a crucial role, giving it a unique signature. This is where the oriental side really shines, yet without overshadowing its floral aldehydic heart. The leather is soft and barely noticeable; if I had to highlight other notes, I’d say vetiver or tonka bean. I love it—it’s ostentatious, narcotic, and tenacious. It doesn’t play it half-hearted; it’s a full declaration. However, despite its explosive opening, the potency fades significantly within the first 30 minutes, and to my surprise, it disappears from my skin much faster than I expected. Perhaps that’s life itself: intense, short, and then quickly fading. After about four hours, a halo remains on the skin—a creamy sweetness with pleasant oriental undertones (soft, but not completely gone). For me, it’s total beauty. But if you don’t like aldehydes, stay far away. Later, in 2017, it was reformulated again, changing its composition dramatically. This review is based on the 1971 spray version.

It’s an old perfume with that distinct 70s vibe. Despite its age, it’s not as serious as others from its era, and it has incredible longevity. It’s definitely worth a try.