Nudiflorum by Nasomatto

They pushed me to try it because I love roses, and this one has an aquatic rose. I don’t smell the rose at all; on my skin, it’s all leather, like wearing leather gloves. I like it, but I see it as more masculine, for a man with a lot of personality. Good longevity and sillage over 8 hours; I’d wear it in cold weather.

What a gem. The name is misleading; it’s floral only to soften the leather, saffron, and animalic notes. An exquisite, complex, potent, elegant, and very sensual perfume, and I’d say it leans more masculine.

Nudiflorum is an olfactory intimacy, the interpretation of being touched, a caress of bare skin merging with yours. Natural, primitive, and sensual, flowers that lead us to the edge of sleep. Despite that, here the only thing ‘naked’ is the perfume itself. Let’s be honest, it can’t be sensual or natural. I’m not talking about ingredients, but the finish. The composition is unbalanced and lacks polish. A harsh floral note at the start due to benzyl acetate, making me think of white flowers, all sitting on top of an overdose of sandalwood and lots of Iso Butyl Quinoline to create a leather sensation. Nothing works together; everything overlaps and ends up muddy. They say it’s the tranquility of letting go without limits. That’s what Gualtieri must have felt, without worrying about limits, finishes, or harmony. Why modulate the Quinoline? Why control the acetate upon spraying? Undoubtedly, the perfume is ‘naked,’ but not in a sensual or caressing way. It seems they didn’t bother thinking about how it wears in the morning. Cheers.

They say it’s intimacy and bare skin, but here the only thing bare is the perfume. It’s unrefined and unpolished: shrill flowers, maxed-out sandalwood, and quinaloline for leather. Nothing works well; it smells washed out. Seems like they didn’t think about the finish.

What a beast, a super rich animalic floral. The moment I put it on, I instantly thought of Sahara Baker’s Charade; it smells identical. They don’t list neroli, but I smell it a lot mixed with that animalic side. It’s linear, evolving only when it first sprays and dries down: starts with citrus, then leather and neroli come to the forefront with cedar. Smells amazing; from my perspective, it’s a sexy perfume. Lasts a ton on skin, though it doesn’t project much. Scent: 8/10 Longevity: 9/10 Projection: 6/10 Presentation: 9/10 (RECOMMENDED)

A vegetal scent over an oud-leather base with a weird floral note. Personally, I don’t like it as a fragrance. Rating: ★ ★ ☆ ☆ ☆

Sounds like a blatant copy of Jeddah’s Soleil and SHL’s Nur, with slight variations but the same concept; I’d stick with Humbert Lucas’s versions. Official notes aren’t listed anywhere except Noseparis: rhubarb, raspberry, rose, salicylate, animal, cedar, leather, oakmoss. To me, olfactorily, it’s leather, lemon, and chamomile with that oakmoss and a touch of birch giving it a smoky nuance. It’s fairly linear: citrus at first, then floral from the chamomile, and finally dry, rough leather. Aside from that, it evolves little. Performance is brutal, above average; two sprays last the whole day and the projection is beastly. Unisex? To me, it leans masculine due to the smoky leather, but it’s subjective. Clearly a winter scent, at most autumn; I’ve used it in spring, but not in heat. Personally, I prefer Jeddah’s Soleil: more nuances, better evolution, higher-quality notes, and it smells rounder. Still, it’s a worthy perfume, even if the price is outrageous.

Trying it right now and what a delight. It’s not a soft, sweet floral like I expected, but an intense, oriental perfume that’s very dirty with animal nuances. I can’t find the official note list, but my inexperienced nose detects jasmine, rose, oud, leather, resins, woods, and musk. It reminds me of an oriental I tried, maybe Huberta by Kelsey Berwin? Hmm, I think so. They’re not the same, but that mix of flowers with oud and resins is very similar. Nudiflorum is more potent, intense, creamy, and dirty, but they share that little point of similarity. Has anyone who tried both confirmed? And most importantly, has anyone cracked the code on its notes? Scent: 10, Longevity: 10, Sillage: 8, Value: 5, Versatility: 6, Overall: 8.5