Calyx by Clinique

Clinique’s Aromatic Elixir is my mom’s signature scent; I absolutely adore it, but I can’t stand it on anyone else. I tried the Time Ology from the same brand, and it was nothing special. Today, amidst the overwhelming Christmas shopping at El Corte Inglés, I spotted a Clinique display and, tucked away almost hidden, found this Calyx. I never approach their fragrances, but I gave it a try and was blown away. It’s citrusy, fruity, bitter, juicy, fresh, green, and intense; the longevity is incredible with just one spray. What stands out most is the grapefruit, papaya, and oak moss, all perfectly balanced. I’m obsessed and will be ordering it for the Three Kings’ Day. I’m increasingly sure my style is vintage perfumes, as I barely tolerate what’s marketed today for personal use.

For me, it’s a fresh perfume. Nothing sweet at all from the fruits accompanying it. I’d rather define it as ‘serious’, a solemn scent. For tastes that don’t want their aroma to give them away; they just want to smell good and that’s enough.

I never tried the old Prescriptives Calyx, but the one sold today under that name feels like a weapon of mass destruction. Maybe the original was the same, but I have no data to judge. Clinique’s Calyx (a pretty name) looks like harmless water, which is the furthest thing from the truth. It’s a chaotic bomb of sickly green, with an incredibly sharp, acidic green note and an insidious blend of tropical fruits. I find it unhinged and shrill, nothing like the serene calm advertised. It feels extremely dated: like taking mid-2000s tropical scents and adding a sharp, ’90s green water vibe—a rare Frankenstein that smells like windshield wiper fluid and an ultra-sharp gel air freshener. Occasionally, it reminds you of refined Play-Doh. The truth is, when that Play-Doh note hits, you inhale like a maniac, disgusted yet charmed, a guilty pleasure. It’s like scratching an annoying mosquito bite. Amidst this aromatic schizophrenia, you do catch a certain ‘refinement’ from the house. It’s not an unnuanced cheap perfume; there are overlapping notes and phases. The longevity is nuclear: I tested it yesterday and couldn’t wash it off even with boiling water. I also like the bottle; it’s pretty, like a Lancôme O but in a ’90s spa version. I think we’re looking at a love-it-or-hate-it perfume, burned into memory since birth.

Floral, fruity, and slightly green. A wonderful perfume full of special moments. Although it’s fresh, it lasts on the skin for hours. The opening is a citrusy fruity blast with notes of nearly ripe mango (creamy with vegetal sap), lemon leaves, lemon, tangerine peel, and papaya juice; followed by freesia, jasmine, and lots of muguet. In the dry down, soft touches of oakmoss and green sandalwood give it the character of a quality unisex cologne. At first, it reminded me of Acqua di Gio, then a plastic note brought back memories of an eighties shampoo and I thought of ‘Gucci Rush’, but those sensations lasted only a couple of seconds before my nose settled on its particular scent. Its style reminds me of a sophisticated CK One inspired by Diorissimo, perhaps due to the lily of the valley. It’s long-lasting but soft, a delicate halo for at least five hours. I wore it at 8:00 AM and could still feel its spirit at 1:00 PM; the first hour is very feminine, then it mutates into unisex. I have a January 2014 version, so I don’t know the previous batch, meaning my judgment isn’t clouded… Beautiful, feminine, and ideal for the heat.