Men
Francesco Smalto pour Homme
Acordes principales
Descripción
Francesco Smalto pour Homme by Francesco Smalto is an aromatic fougère fragrance for men. Launched in 1987, this composition features top notes of lavender, rosemary, tarragon, bergamot, anise, neroli, and thyme. The heart reveals fern, Virginia cedar, patchouli, carnation, cyclamen, geranium, and pine needles, while the base settles with leather, oakmoss, musk, and tonka bean.
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Comunidad
243 votos
- Positivo 93%
- Negativo 4.1%
- Neutral 2.9%
Pirámide olfativa
Estructura completa de la fragancia: de la salida al fondo.
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Género
Femenino
Unisex femenino
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Unisex masculino
Masculino
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SMALTO Anthem: any song by the band JOURNEY. Like the band I mentioned, Smalto suffers from the same flaw: they are two great concepts, popular but that will never leave the decade where they were produced. Journey never could recover from their split in the mid-to-late 80s, and Smalto will never overcome the fact that it’s very similar to Drakkar Noir, making it one of thousands of copies of this popular fragrance. It’s a shame because it’s a good fragrance, only that if it’s completely encapsulated in the 80s… let’s sing: doooon’t stop believing… hold on to that feeling…
Strong opening loaded with bergamot, lavender, and tarragon. It doesn’t have such intense citrus notes as in Drakkar Noir (of which, as PablOSO says, Smalto is too similar in style). From the middle notes, I perceived a bit of carnation, patchouli, and soft cedar, maybe a little horsetail (or was it another green note I don’t know how to distinguish well; most likely). The musky-mossy finish, not sweet, with some leather. It is really a fragrance “too” inspired by Guy Laroche’s Drakkar Noir. Both are listed as aromatic fougères on Fragrantica. In the Haarmann Reimer classification table, both are also in the Fougere Fresh category, but Francesco Smalto Pour Homme is also closer to Jazz by YSL and Tsar by V&A. It’s a fragrance without the citrus, pine, and more bitter green notes of Drakkar Noir (the wormwood and absinthe). It doesn’t feel simpler than Drakkar in any case, but it does share that same 80s spirit. The trail is moderate (can be a bit heavy for one or two hours with overapplication) and longevity in my case is over 12 hours. Given its note characteristics, I see it for intermediate seasons and more for daytime use. If you want a Drakkar Noir variation and see it around, you can try this “fougere fresh” with little wood.
Today I was able to try this fragrance because where I buy some scents, they had it in tester format. Honestly, I’ve liked it; as mentioned in the two previous reviews, it has the total style of 80s fragrances. It’s a fragrance of herbal, green, aromatic, leathery, and very smoky style. To me, besides Drakkar Noir, it reminds me of Tsar by Van Cleef in part of its dry-down and of one not listed on Fragrantica called Nobile Royalty by Alexander da Costa; the latter really seems very similar to it. The opening is strong, and the notes of bergamot, anise, and lavender are noticeable and remain for most of its development, while in the background, moss, patchouli, and leather complement the touch of fragrances from that era. I recommend it for anyone who likes the aforementioned fragrances. Its trail is at least average, and longevity on the skin is over 8 hours without issues. UPDATE: Although it resembles Drakkar Noir especially in the dry-down, the current version of Francesco Smalto is much better in longevity and scent, as the current Drakkar Noir is a shame.
The day I bought this rich fragrance was probably between 1987 and 1990; back then, I was single. I remember loving its scent: it opened with a strong citrus smell if you overapplied, and as Priethcallas, Pabloso, and Beto Ruiz say, it had a musky-ambery scent with something of skin or suede. It wasn’t sweet, but it was a very attractive perfume, very similar to Drakkar Noir. I preferred Smalto because when I went looking for Drakkar, I also smelled Smalto and bought this one. Months after I finished it, I went to look for it again but couldn’t find it, so I bought another from the same brand, Molto Smalto, which I also liked, but I still prefer Francesco Smalto, and its memory will stay with me.
Ladies and gentlemen, I’ve found the love of my life, at least in perfumes xD. Obviously, I’d need millions to try more, but of what I know so far, Francesco Smalto has stolen my heart. It has everything to conquer me: a spectacular, spicy, and powerful opening, like a seal of authenticity; you’ll never be fooled by a pirate copy if it doesn’t have that opening. I love that an opening note, which smells like tarragon, is so spicy yet softly sweet, but at the same time a kitchen spice aroma, like the aisle of dried chiles and spices in a great Mexican market. Some will wrinkle their noses and leave the bottle there. Bravo! I love perfumes that keep treasures for the persevering, the ones that don’t wear a mask to hook you. I love those with personality and honesty. Francesco Smalto slowly turns into a herbal, soft woody, green phase—’green that I want to be green.’ Yes, it reminds me of Drakkar Noir, but the first formula that caused a frenzy, and yet I like it more because while the first dries out and becomes woody, the second stays juicy green, sparkling with fresh spices. I can perceive in the minty floral blend the sweetness of anise, so soft and delicate that if you don’t look for it with dedication, you’ll never notice. That tiny sweetness keeps it beautiful for hours, balancing the mossy leather so it doesn’t go dry and raspy, but holds in a unique, inspiring equilibrium. I did a strange experiment: I wanted to play the alchemist. I put a mix of Drakkar Noir, Tsar by Van Cleef & Arpels on one arm, and to give it that anise kick, I added a shot of Azzaro Pour Homme; a few minutes later, that mix resembled the dry-down of Francesco Smalto quite a bit, but I couldn’t match its beauty. I found a bottle just a month ago at the fantastic San Juan de Dios market in Guadalajara, Mexico. At a price one-third of what they ask online or in forums. I’ve used it to go out for drinks and for work, and in both situations, I’ve won many compliments, especially from friends who trust me enough to say the scent matches my personality sensationally. They go on smelling me over and over. Applying generously yields a massive trail for over 4 hours, or if you want something soft, two or three sprays are enough. Longevity is 8 to 10 hours. And it doesn’t give me a headache even if I overapply—see why I’m in love! Definitely, perfumes from the past are unmatched; the reason I like this French perfume with an Italian name so much is that its scent feels so natural, as if you rubbed on essential oils of moss, lavender, and other notes. All the time, until its soft skin-level finish, the quality of the notes reminds you of nature: herbs from a garden, leather from a garment, moss from a temperate forest, lavender from a blooming field. That’s it, the notes are exquisitely natural, and when a fragrance smells like that, it pleases, attracts, and enchants.
Just arrived! This has some serious old-time density; it reminds me a bit of Montana Parfum d’Homme (last formula). I’d say it’s the rough version of Drakkar Noir but with more testosterone. Oakmoss isn’t the star here; it’s a supporting player adding depth to the floral chords fused with a slight greasy leather touch. I haven’t judged its full performance yet, but it feels robust. An 80s icon that, with all its demonic aura, could carve a path against today’s trends and maybe hit hard in modern perfumery. Another Pierre Bourdon masterpiece. 4 seasons, applying gently in spring and summer.
Holy crap, what a masterpiece! It’s like mixing a barbershop vibe with Xeryus but darker. A true masterpiece that every powerhouse connoisseur needs in their collection.
But holy shit, what a masterpiece. It’s like mixing Barbershop with Xeryus but way darker. A true MASTERPIECE that every fragrance connoisseur and powerhouse lover must own.