Poudrextase by Marlou

The notes don’t match the website; it seems like a powdery musk mixed with dried rose, easy to wear in my opinion, just like all of Marlou’s perfumes. I don’t think any of them are excessively dirty or offensive; I suppose it’s differences in each person’s olfactory perception, but so far I haven’t found any challenging animal fragrance except those with a very prominent dirty leather note, like Lover’s Tale, Amber Kiso, or Cuoium.

Not really, it smells like sweat and goat. I can’t stand it.

Perhaps the most animalic fragrance I’ve ever tried. The castoreum dominates from the start, with touches of civet and dusty dried petals. It begins with maximum animal intensity, then calms down. The castoreum and dried petals take the lead for the first 45 minutes, then the civet kicks in—noticeable but not unpleasant like in others—until it moderates and settles into a powdery castoreum that sometimes sounds like leather. It’s tough, difficult, not for beginners or gourmand or young tastes. You have to try it before buying blindly. I like it, but it’s very personal. It’s for (better at night) cold days; with it, you’re “wearing” cured furs right on your skin. I see it as unisex with a male lean: it incites decision, going after what you want, a socially masculine image. It doesn’t exclude determined women, for sure there are more of them. In men, it makes them more macho, primitive, nothing sophisticated, direct, marking territory: a nocturnal hunter. In women, the determined female, confident, going after it without waiting: a nocturnal hunter. It reaffirms authentic and magnetic personality, enhancing natural sensuality. Balanced, no sharp edges or stinging moments, though the scents are penetrating by nature. Lasts about 10 hours with a strong sillage for the first two hours, then fades, so you need to dose carefully to find a comfortable level.

It’s a special fragrance, with a light rose opening. As it settles, it becomes a sweet, powdery musk with a dry edge. Of the three, Carnicure is the best.

I’ve tried all three new Marlou releases and this is the best, though it sounds a bit excessive to me. The opening is a bomb, yes, a bit aggressive, but what stands out most are the dried flowers over a very animalic base, with a potent musk that smells like castoreum or civet. In the end, just like in the other two perfumes from the brand, that animal note is the most noticeable, though here it’s better balanced with rice and woody notes than in Ambilux or Carnicure, where for me they become unpleasant (in the case of Ambilux, it smells exactly like someone licked my hand). The performance is very good, for better or worse: if you like it, it lasts all day, but if you don’t, it follows you even after you wash up. For me, it’s totally unisex and more of a daily wear. Scent: 5.5, Longevity: 9, Projection: 7.5, Value: 5, Versatility: 7, Uniqueness: 8.5, Overall: 6.