Coriandre by Jean Couturier

I’m confused by the sandalwood; although it has good properties, the scent just doesn’t work for me. It feels too sweaty and animalistic, not attractive, even though chemically it’s similar to hormones. They say it helps hair growth, but I don’t test it at home because I know nothing about aromatherapy and could end up with a nasty rash. Besides, it’s a waste of money buying essential oils if you’re not going to see some fuzzy hair. For crazy experiments, TikTok is enough. But if you mix it with rose oil (my favorite is gallica) in a fatty base, it changes everything. You get a delicate attar that puts you between relaxation and erotic frenzy, balancing masculine and feminine. Coriandre has something very similar to that rose and sandal attar, but without the grease—an aldehydic opening that turns powdery, with an animal and woody touch, and a halo of coriander spices. The coriander and sandalwood season a rose that mixes with a geranium that almost drowns it out, because sometimes geranium smells more like rose than the rose itself. This trio is the best, though I can’t stop mentioning how beautiful it all smells together: clean bergamot, angelica that soothes the aldehydes, fine iris and violet, and a complete base where nothing is superfluous, all guided by the sandalwood. A silky musk closes a brief but precious olfactory story, very Indian. It could be my favorite if it weren’t for the fact that it doesn’t last. The trail is almost non-existent; to last past two hours, you have to spray a lot, and even then, it doesn’t stick to clothes. If you reapply every couple of hours, it’s noticeable, but the bottle is a brick, and carrying it in your bag gives you scoliosis for free. I agree that it was surely reformulated and had its strength taken away, just like happened with Eau de Lancaster, to please fastidious noses. Lancaster lost its lavender and basil, but Coriandre barely survived; it still has charm and charisma, it just lacks intensity and longevity. But to be able to immerse yourself, even briefly, in its sensuality, it’s worth it.

I love green scents, so when I finally got my hands on Coriandre, I was absolutely thrilled. It smells like grass—it’s peculiar yet easy to wear, reminding me a bit of Aromatics Elixir. It opens strong, bitter, and sharp, like a classic chypre, but the bergamot softens it quickly. It’s cool, fresh, and striking thanks to the aldehydes and angelica, which is a top note. The coriander fades into the background, becoming soapy and delicate, while the flowers and oakmoss round everything out. In the dry down, it’s woody and musky, evoking that feeling of cooking herbs in an ethnic market that never fades. It’s refined, light, and a timeless classic—a gem worth discovering today.

Coriandre is a tribute to dusty rose, delicate and subtle. The musk creates an enveloping cloud, beautiful like the petals of Rosa Otto, but only superficially. Beneath that layer, coriander and aldehydes give it personality and character, making it magnetically attractive. The woods, like patchouli, add a masculine and earthy touch that takes us down to the plant’s roots, yet softly and sensually thanks to the civet, as if it’s stripping down in a sexy, bold way. The drydown has a retro nuance that makes it very refined, an improved version of L’Ombre dans l’Eau by Diptyque. Rating: 7

Coriandre is gorgeous; I have a bottle from a friend, and it reminds me a lot of the classic Miss Dior, so it’s a total hit for me. I love that perfect balance between the fresh, spicy opening of coriander and the aldehydes, paired with a powdery heart of iris and violet over a very well-rounded moss. A perfect equilibrium.

It has a unique and particular scent; more than a perfume, it feels like an excellent cologne. Everything blends to create a new fragrance. It’s timeless, fresh to the point of freezing, with spicy, woody notes and a soft floral touch. I absolutely loved it. I’d wear it anytime, day or night.

It smells magnificently and is very well described in the previous reviews, so I’ll just say that it was surely reformulated because the trail is minimal. What a pity, because it’s a chypre of those that give you energy just by smelling it.