Perfumes de Ernest Daltroff

Ernest Daltroff was a French perfumer and the founder of Parfums Caron, a well-known fragrance house. He was born on November 17, 1867, into a middle-to-upper-class family of Russian origin. His mother would put a drop of her perfume behind her ears before going to sleep, which sparked his interest in fragrances from an early age.

In his youth, Daltroff traveled extensively and worked in the dress industry. However, after visiting the Exposition Universelle in 1900, he became fascinated with the aromas of flowers, fruits, and spices, and developed an exceptional olfactory memory. Without any formal training beforehand, he decided to pursue a career as a perfumer.

In 1903, together with his brother Raoul, Daltroff set up a workshop in Asnières-sur-Seine in the former perfumery “Emilia.” A year later, he founded his own company, Parfums Caron, in the heart of Paris, at number 10 of the rue de la Paix. The name was adopted in part from the small “Mercerie Parfumerie Caron” at 20, rue Rossini, which Daltroff had bought from Madame Anne-Marie Caron. He chose a short, easy-to-remember name that could be pronounced in several languages while still being associated with France.

In 1906, Daltroff met Félicie Wanpouille, a young milliner who worked on the same street. She introduced him to her clients and became his collaborator and muse. While Daltroff created the fragrances, Wanpouille designed the bottles and acted as artistic director. Together they launched several iconic perfumes, including Narcisse Noir in 1911 and N’aimez Que Moi in 1917.

Daltroff’s innovative palette often incorporated bases produced by Mr. Naef and the Fabriques de Laire, in particular Mousse de Saxe. He created many other fragrances, such as Tabac Blond, En Avion, Fleurs De Rocaille, and Nuit de Noël.

In 1918, Daltroff was invited to attend the Bronx International Exposition of Science, Arts, and Industries in New York with his competitor François Coty. He won the award for the most avant-garde company, which opened the American market during the interwar period.

In 1923, a Caron boutique opened on Fifth Avenue in New York. In 1934, Daltroff launched Pour Un Homme, a men’s fragrance that was revolutionary at the time, since men mainly used eau de Cologne. In 1939, the growing antisemitism led Daltroff to take refuge in the United States, where he died on February 3, 1941. He is buried in Quogue Cemetery in New York.

Daltroff’s legacy continues in the world of perfume, and his work continues to influence modern perfumers. He is described as the most subtle perfumer of his time, whose work was closest to that of painters and musicians.