Men
Youth-Dew Amber Nude
Acordes principales
Descripción
Youth-Dew Amber Nude by Estée Lauder for women is an oriental vanilla fragrance. The nose behind this composition is Christophe Laudamiel. The top notes are cinnamon, ginger, tea, magnolia, and grapefruit; the heart notes include carnation, ylang-ylang, black rose, and jasmine; and the base notes are amber, sandalwood, patchouli, and vetiver.
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927 votos
- Positivo 77%
- Negativo 21%
- Neutral 1.9%
Pirámide olfativa
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It lasts forever, despite resembling the predecessor Youth-Dew, which my mother used daily before switching to the horrendous Paloma Picasso, a scent I can’t stand. Thank God my father had the courage to tell her it didn’t suit her! Anyway… depending on your pH, the spices might slap you in the face or you might smell great. This is the humble review of a regular user, not a trained nose.
One of the best flankers of an already unsurpassable perfume like Youth Dew. When Lauder released this version, Tom Ford had just left Gucci and YSL, where he left a brutal history of perfumes (Envy, Rush, M7, Nu…). Modernizing a perfect classic is difficult; Ford was smart. Instead of making something modern like Catapano, he opted for classicism. Youth Dew Amber Nude is the same Youth Dew but with a velvety tone, as if it were at room temperature, recalling the humidity of freshly cut fruits and flowers (ginger, ylang, amber). It’s like crossing the diabolical and spicy Youth Dew with the soapy cleanliness of classics like Chanel No. 5 or Bois d’Orient. It’s an old perfume but with a spicy spark that makes it contemporary. If it were a month, it would be September. In Amber Nude, everything fits: the American perfection of Lauder with the spicy spark of Ford. The whole line was beautiful, even if it were for Marilyn Monroe. The bottle, with its amber ribbing and bow, evokes refined passionate nights. To end, we must mention Carolyn Murphy, beautiful and American, the perfection of simple New World beauty. P.S.: I wouldn’t pay much, but if you find it at the launch price, don’t hesitate, it’s a gem that went unnoticed.
ESTÉE LAUDER (1906-2004). Her parents were humble Hungarian and Czech immigrants, despite what she claimed. Sharp and with the help of her uncle, a chemist and cosmetologist, she started selling her own creams. In 1953 she launched YOUTH DEW, and thanks to the bath oil and then the perfume, she scented all middle-class American women, becoming the richest woman in the world. She also created ARAMIS and CLINIQUE. The original oil had 30% perfume, triple what we have today, so with a bath you smelled incredible. Those were other times. YOUTH DEW AMBER NUDE: starts with a citrusy and spicy opening of ginger, almost aldehydic and bright, but that freshness lasts a second. Then it invades a dark, indolic, and animalic accord, stronger than the original. It’s a deep oriental scent with a cinnamon so dense it feels like shifting sand. Mixed with a thick, earthy patchouli, it smells like oud from the most remote East, even though it doesn’t contain oud. It has indolic jasmine, a black rose like the Night Queen, thick ylang-ylang, and a dark amber, sweet like carnivorous plant balm, which makes you sleepy. As it evolves, the dark side softens with honeyed notes and the cinnamon becomes sweet like dessert. Drying down, it smells soapy, sweet, and powdery, very different from the start. It’s a well-constructed, complex, and beautiful perfume in its evolution. A classic with its own personality. (From the perfumery of ESPARTACO).
What beautiful reviews I’m reading about this gem. I have no words. I bought it in 2008, the 75ml version, and have only used it for special occasions, like last New Year’s Eve. I have barely 3ml left, a tiny bit of this bewitching elixir; it hurts to know it was a limited edition and I’ll never find it again. Every time I take it out of its box and uncork it, ugh, I get high on it. It smells truly vintage, not “inspired,” but like past times, happy and nostalgic. I imagine it was created for a Hollywood star of the golden age, like Mae West or Humphrey Bogart, rushing to their mansions in Los Angeles to go to the Oscars. It evokes pure elegance, good manners, and contained sensuality. It’s unisex. I’ll keep it with great affection, my beautiful Amber Nude.