Vent Vert The Original

1 reseña

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• Selene

  November 29, 2022

  

  Vent Vert is an olfactory journey—the legendary green floral that ushered in the dawn of thousands of fragrances. Germaine Cellier crafted an alchemical potion that pushed the boundaries of flowers with herbaceous touches. Since its creation, several noses followed that path, some making those verdurous tones more romantic, like dew on a wet meadow, and others saturating the herbal notes until they became histrionic and dark. I’m reaching back to the 1940s formula, the original masterpiece that used unthinkable doses of galbanum for the time—not just due to different fashion, but because of the lack of resources and the restrictions we face today. The vintage eau de toilette has a creamy, well-defined herbal opening; that creaminess avoids the typical metallic edge of greens. It comes down to several factors: a soft touch of white florals, plus hints of lemon and barely perceptible peach, which together border galbanum and prevent it from turning metallic. It’s pure artistic balance. The best part is that it has two stages: one markedly herbal, and another where the florals start to shine. Like a thorny green stem that, fueled by the earth’s energy, grows until it produces buds that finally open their petals. Vent Vert does the same: the geranium and rose notes become so present that I never expected a green explosion to give rise to a creamy red rose with lots of moss. The dry-down makes the fragrance lighter, only potent in the first few seconds before settling. I detect wood and lily root. It’s sublime. The fragrance was reformulated in the early 90s, toning down the herbal opening to highlight the citrus. Nose Calice Becker ensured it kept that dual play: a green opening with a floral development. In the heart (following trends), he gave more space to white florals and hyacinth, weakening much of the geranium and rose. The floral is opulent and well-executed, supported by a slightly woody base, suppressing the spicy resinous background of the first version. I think for a reformulation, it’s done very well. It was reformulated again in the late 90s and 2000s, versions I’m unaware of but don’t mind trying. An aromatic beauty.