Must de Cartier by Cartier
Women 1981
Description
Must de Cartier by Cartier is an oriental fragrance for women. Launched in 1981, this composition was created by Jean-Jacques Diener and Nathalie Feisthauer. The top notes unfold with galbanum, Brazilian rosewood, aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, green mandarin, peach, and pineapple; the heart reveals leather, carnation, vetiver, iris root, ylang-ylang, musk, yellow narcissus, neroli, rose, jasmine, and orchid; while the base…
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The olfactory pyramid
A guide to the opening, heart and lasting trail of the fragrance.
The community speaks
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In the collection
Leading answer I own it
6,178 votes
What do you think?
Leading answer Love it
2,513 votes
Season
Choose severalLeading answer Winter
1,654 votes
Time of day
Choose severalLeading answer Night
1,144 votes
Each question has its own vote count. You can choose several seasons.
Fragrance profile
About Must de Cartier
Must de Cartier by Cartier is an oriental fragrance for women. Launched in 1981, this composition was created by Jean-Jacques Diener and Nathalie Feisthauer. The top notes unfold with galbanum, Brazilian rosewood, aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, green mandarin, peach, and pineapple; the heart reveals leather, carnation, vetiver, iris root, ylang-ylang, musk, yellow narcissus, neroli, rose, jasmine, and orchid; while the base notes close with amber, vanilla, sandalwood, tonka bean, labdanum, and vetiver.
Green, herbal and fougère Woods and mosses Fruits, vegetables and nuts Musk, amber and animalic Flowers White flowers Spices
It may remind you of
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Related editions
More from Jean-Jacques Diener
How it wears
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Longevity
Leading answer Long-lasting
645 votes
Sillage
Leading answer Strong
824 votes
Character
Leading answer Balanced
281 votes
Value perception
Leading answer Fair price
205 votes
Most talked about
Notes and topics that come up most in 20 reviews.
Featured review The most detailed of the latest reviews.
Have you worn Must de Cartier?
Tell us how it opens, how it settles on your skin, how long it lasts and when you wear it.
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LosPerfumesDeJavi
Ah, perfumes from the 80s, so complex, what times I never lived through—I was born in ’92. I agree with those who compare it to Calvin Klein’s Obsession (especially the men’s version), but this one is infinitely better. The scent is more pleasant and natural; Obsession smells very synthetic. When I buy Cartier, I know it’s elegant and high-quality—it never fails! It has a moderate but very noticeable sillage without being overwhelming. It’s perfect for any man, not feminine, truly unisex. Enjoy this work of art!
Bella212
This is my perfume of choice, the one I’d love to own but is so hard to find. I used to go to El Corte Inglés; I was young and drawn to the beautiful, unique, magical, and distinguished bottles. My nose couldn’t find anything similar—I read it’s like Obsession, but it’s no longer available. If there’s anything similar, please comment or message me. A wonderful perfume, I LOVE IT ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️. My olfactory memory still holds the scent; I found no flaws, it was perfect 🥰
Liberty
100% animalic, dense and bold, it’s an explosion on the skin. Definitely a winter scent for me—I have the original in a small bottle and doubt it will ever run out; I can’t handle it. I use it in tiny drops mixed with Narciso Rodriguez for Her, and they blend perfectly. It’s an olfactory bomb. Be careful, it projects a lot. A majestic creation. I don’t know about any reformulation.
Selene
Clarification on the Cartier Must: the 1981 version is different from the 2000s one. The first is a white floral with green tones, moss, and animalic tints. The second is a spicy, woody floral/oriental, similar to CK’s Obsession. I grew up loving the reformulation (red cap, clear bottle): a loud floral oriental with sharp galbanum, semi-bitter bergamot, an amber heart, vanilla, and talc notes. Ostentatious, colossal, intoxicating. Everyone noticed its presence and luxury. Recently, I found the first version (brownish-green bottle with appliqués). It’s exquisite—a white floral with greens, jasmine, and neat moss. Prominent opening that then settles into a light sillage and above-average longevity. The civet note moistens the florals without being dirty, with a perfect vanilla undertone. In quality, the first version is superior; it smells refined without being dramatic. They say Diener took vanilla from Shalimar and greens from Alga. It connects me to Coty’s Emeraude and Dior from the 70s, but the green jasmine stands out with its musky side. The 2000s reformulation has amplified vanilla and tonka bean, pronounced woods, and relegated flowers. Even though the first has better aromatic quality, I still love my red-cap Must.
Naihathor
It’s very special, spicy and balsamic. It resembles Obsession in the opening, but the development and dry down are very different: Obsession shouts, while Cartier Must whispers sweetly. Obsession feels like getting wrapped in a jar of spices and resins; Must is like gently uncorking something and feeling delicate aromas rise. It’s intimate, close to the skin, delicious. In the heart, I smell chocolate, sweet resins, soft and creamy vanilla, and a talc-like finish reminiscent of expensive old makeup. It reminds me of a very sweet, elegant lady from my childhood, with her makeup, jewelry, stories, and soft voice. I’m fascinated by it, I love it, and I hope it always hugs me.
Silvi_del_agua
Strong opening, semi-liquorous woody notes (aldehydes, galbanum, and citrus deliver the first hit). Then it transforms into an amber wood with creamy white and yellow flowers. In the last few hours, close to the skin, it’s a sandalwood-vanilla combo. I loved it; it’s cozy and elegant without being serious. The best part is that it’s not overwhelming or beastly in projection, but intimate. A well-crafted perfume.
Naihathor
It’s a very special, spicy, and balsamic perfume. At first, it reminds me of Obsession, but the difference is huge: while Obsession shouts, Cartier’s Must whispers sweetly. It’s like gently opening a jar of spices and resins so the scents rise delicately toward your face, not overwhelming you. It’s an intimate scent that clings to the skin, absolutely delicious. In the heart, I detect chocolate, sweet resins, and a soft, creamy vanilla, finishing with a musky note that smells like expensive vintage makeup. It reminds me of a very elegant, sweet lady from my childhood, with her makeup, jewelry, and melodic voice. I’m fascinated by it, I love it, and I hope it always stays with me.
quintralitax
I liked it quite a bit; on me, it smells very much like Guerlain’s Shalimar.
wildkatzen
Interesting first impression, unisex. Seeing it, the amber bottle looking like aged whiskey is intimidating. I sprayed a lot, expecting a bomb and a radioactive punch, but nothing happened. It was strange because it was a soft amber, balsamic, with galbanum, rose, peach, and green notes in constant battle, like a good wine or cheese that takes years to achieve its beauty. Clearly not for kids; it’s for someone mature with refined taste. It might have a hint of Obsession, but only at 5%.
Edu Lezana
In my opinion, it’s a soft, enveloping, and warm oriental scent born in the 80s for women who wanted to stand out. It’s complex in its notes and leaves a great trail, though today it feels more linear and reminiscent of other fragrances, even masculine ones, making it a perfect unisex fit. A sweet aroma stands out, yet it’s not cloying thanks to the green notes; it’s pleasant, elegant, and ideal for fresh days and daytime wear, as sugary and sensual scents tend to stand out less nowadays. Plus, it’s quite exclusive, so I recommend testing it on your skin first, as its amber notes might not appeal to everyone. A light oriental perfect for a classic, formal style.
Edu Lezana
For me, it’s a soft, enveloping, and warm oriental. Born in the 80s for women eager to stand out. It’s complex with great sillage. Today, it’s quite linear and reminds me of other fragrances, even masculine ones, so it can be considered unisex. A sweet aroma that’s not cloying thanks to the green notes. It’s pleasant, elegant, and perfect for cool temperatures and daytime use (with today’s sweeter fragrances, it doesn’t stand out as much). It’s fairly exclusive; advisable to test it on the skin first due to the amber notes that some might not like. A light oriental for classic and formal style.
Countess
MUST, exquisite scent: warm, enveloping, and velvety. To my nose, it’s identical to Obsession. It’s an EDT but projects like the best EDP. Very suitable for night, but I dare to wear it during the day with a discreet amount. Greetings from Chile.
Countess
MUST Exquisite scent: warm, enveloping, and velvety. To my nose, identical to Obsession. It’s an EDT but projects like the best EDP. Very suitable for night, but I’d dare to wear it during the day too, with a discreet amount. Greetings from Chile.
charlotinable
As I mentioned before, Cartier knows how to personalize their fragrances, giving them a life of their own and that majestic aura of the classics—not just any classics. They’re looking for something woody-sweet with that earthy, rooted touch that evokes warm sensuality, and this is the one. Nowadays it’s hard to find, and the one I have I treat like gold. The best part is that it smells very, very similar, almost identical, to CK Obsession, and that’s wonderful; when I wear the CK one, I also feel this Cartier beauty.
MarcusRS
Version: Cartier bottle with red leather implant, splash 50ml (198?-199?). There’s only one fragrance that can stand up to the aromatic-earthly wonders of Chanel 19, and that’s Must by Cartier. An earthy fragrance in the most visceral sense: wet earth, citrus, with timeless complexities. Without a doubt, Mr. Jean-Jacques knows that heaven and hell dwell on earth; you have to cross that tightrope of concepts. Must by Cartier goes beyond gender conventions; for now, I’m stepping onto that tightrope and I firmly believe Must is for me.
alisa30
I love it. It’s a very fresh and youthful perfume, perfect for daytime wear.
ShiseidoTactics
I don’t like clichés, but the first thing that came to mind was a perfume for women over 50. It’s a pleasant powdery, old-school scent. I wouldn’t recommend it for a younger woman. However, its quality, compared to the hundreds of fragrances launched daily worldwide, makes us feel nostalgic for such a high level. Well done, Cartier.
María García
It has nothing to do with the Must EDT from the 80s, my favorite for over 10 years. This one is much more like the perfume (and the eau de parfum) from back then, and indeed, it’s as powdery as Calvin Klein Obsession. I’m still waiting for Cartier to consider bringing back the old Must.
Claudy76
Identical to Obsession.