Umbra Maia by Castanez Parfums

No nonsense, one of the most impressive fragrances I’ve ever tried. José Núñez, a great Mexican perfumer, gifts us this masterpiece. An intoxicating opening of cherry with gin, a spectacular development of tobacco with a young rose and a hint of raspberry, finishing with incense, honey, and first-class sandalwood. Decent projection at one meter for the first two hours with a wide trail. Longevity that surpasses 7 hours, staying alive and addictive through the eighth hour thanks to the sandalwood. If you can, grab a bottle. A true masterpiece. Buy it, this is top-tier Mexican niche perfumery.

I’ve been testing Castañez perfumes for a while now; some I loved, others not so much. Pride of Jupiter and Anthem of Mars were my favorites, then I bought Moonlight in Saturn blind. Some fragrances evolve and get more intense over time; this Mexican house is worth it. Umbra Maia was a blind buy, and I couldn’t be happier. The opening is a rich cherry explosion—not like candy or syrup, but like chewing on a deep, dark, fortified cherry, with a spicy, peppery touch that makes it manly. Then it calms down: sweetness drops, soft spicy rose, fresh earthy tones, and red fruits. Creamy, vanilla-like notes (maybe sandalwood) add warmth. The light tobacco is so well harmonized I don’t even notice it separately. I see it as versatile, unisex but heavily masculine, perfect for women on night outs. Works best in cold climates, indoors, and with semi-formal attire. Best age: late 20s or older. Projection is spectacular at first, then settles to an arm’s length. Good trail in the heart phase. After 4 hours, on my ungrateful skin, it fades to a skin scent, but given how rich it is, I reapply without hesitation. If it ages like its siblings in the collection, it will only improve. Every nose is different, so I recommend testing before buying blind, though I’m tempted. Umbra Maia sets the bar very high for the rest of the Les Pléiades collection.

Cherry, rose, and tobacco: the perfect trinity. This gem has become my favorite of 2025. I’m fascinated by these notes separately, but together in a bottle, what a pleasant surprise! It far exceeded my expectations. Umbra Maia is everything I wanted from Wet Cherry Liquor, but with a real cherry, not artificial, hitting the sweet spot just right. When mixed with tobacco, rose, and cashmere, it becomes a work of art. The juice quality is top-notch; you can feel the evolving phases and the perfumer’s effort. It’s here to stay. Cheers to master José Núñez, all the way to La Mochila! Up Sinaloa, my compadre!

Umbra Maia has a spectacular opening with cherry and gin, intense and full of personality. At 30 minutes, the star blend of rose and tobacco emerges, making it truly interesting. It’s not for everyone, but if you like rose or tobacco, this smells nothing like your usual stuff, which makes it attractive. It lasts 5 to 6 hours with great projection. I see it as ideal for fall or winter, thanks to that interesting yet not overly complex tobacco note.